TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Fan at 100% I believe is a 70 amp draw, that with a hot engine and stock alternator might be time to pull over and shut her down.

 

140 was what mine was set at as well. The start up speed is set to 40% apparently. And 40% is quite a bit to spinning at 140!

Ahh. These only allow increments of 10* by the way.

I may need to eventually play with it myself. I feel like I will definitely need to.

No, max 100% duty is set to whatever the max output is. So if you set it to 210 or 240 it will be 100% no matter what from my understanding.

 

Hey @Murphinator I'm basing my statements based on this post by Deo regarding the module.

So by saying this what I take away from that is that if the controller is set to 140 the fan will start running 40% duty cycle nearly immediately (probably will take 5-10 seconds in actuality but even 10 seconds is not very long at all considering how long it takes the engine to climb up 2 degree increments based on my scan data of my truck) 40% of this fan is 333.6 watts or roughly about 23.1 amps at 14.5 volts. Considering the airflow this thing is supposed to push it's gotta be spinning quite quickly and moving quite a bit of air even at 40% as in it may be overcooling the engine even prior to the t-stat opening. That concerns me for folks running the 180 t-stat if the controller comes set at 140.

 

you want the fan to be on lightly spinning no matter what. you dont want it to have to soft start and come on to react to a quick change.

 

i set the 250 on the high end due to this fan being used to cool a supercharged 6.2l on a race track. its way more power then a tacoma would ever need.

 

here is what i found in testing. the fan initial on command is 15% per Lingenfelter. so the soft start at 140 helps gets the fan moving. if you want less i would move to 150 or 160 but have it running at normal operating temps. also the fan command at 100% is way more then a tacoma engine would ever need. thats why it is set so high. in the heat of NC in the summer at 90 to 100 degrees outside and the most god awful humidity i found my truck dialed in a stabilized tempo of around 203 to 205 with a stock thermostat. we are try to balance running temp, command and be just above thermostat temp. this prevents thermostat flutter or the opening and closing of the thermostat constantly and prevents premature failure.

things to remember- the command is a linear progression. so i set it for 140 to 250 being that it will command 15% at start and 1% more command more for every 1.29 degrees. if you bring the window to 160 to 230 it changes the ramp up to 1% per .82 degrees. but i have a stock engine and thermostat so dialing in our needs is why i went with the ling box.

idle in heat is the car killer. when testing your setup and making changes always evaluate at idle and monitor your engine temp. drive around to validate your settings also.

fan speed kicking on low also helps a good amount of air constantly moving thru the rad and ac condenser at running temp. might even want to bring the starting temp lower in the summer to help the ac that does not keep up in these trucks.

 

I finally caught up reading this thread after missing most of 2019!

Anyway, I have a Kia with GDI only. One annoying reality is no fuel washes over the intake valves and they coke up considerably from reversion and what ever oil makes it down the valve seals. As a preventative I run a can of CRC intake valve/turbo cleaner every oil change (which is definitely overkill, but whatever).

Another benefit to having both types of fueling is when you start trying to run things like E85 and need large volumes of fuel. The High Pressure Fuel system is much more expensive and involved to modify than the port injection. My fueling system is maxed out at E50.

The Ecoboost engines run both fueling systems and can be pushed further than my engine. Just guessing here, but the charge air might be a bit cooler too.

Big fueling control benefit from GDI in FI engines. The newest Kia/Hyundai turbo engines have integrated port injection. I think the Genesis line already has for this model year’s 3.5TT. Curious to see if the variable duration valve trains start making it into the bigger engines too.

 

one last thing the setting are in increments of 10% but the controller has a very smooth command increment in the decimals so it will not ratchet up but smoothly ramp up.

 

@deuceb and @Amo-cat3 your stuff goes out today.

 

I'll be using these Oetiker Self Tensioning ones. Tired of those worm gears as well. I use these on my planes.

Oetiker 17800175 Stainless Steel Self-Tensioning Steples Hose Clamp, Bolted, 9 mm Band Width, 30 mm - 36 mm Hose OD Range (Pack of 10)

https://www.amazon.com/Oetiker-1780...oetiker+self+tensioning&qid=1611668868&sr=8-1

 

Does anyone know the OD of the HPS hoses? About to steal some clamps from work.

 

This post is super informative on the operation of the Lingenfelter box. Thank you brother!

Oetiker makes some awesome products. A clamp like this will allow the hose to basically never leak. Expensive buggers though aren't they?! I ended up dropping like $21 for my two clamps though so price is relative in this case.

I don't offhand, but I sure can measure for you later once I'm a little more awake as the box is still in my room from the little modifications I made to the upper hose yesterday.

 

How much pressure do you think those will hold?

 

At least 21 psi...thats what my plane's push out. But ive pressurized them to 30 psi before.

 

Is this the size we need for the hoses?

 

Good to know, thanks.

 

I posted the part number for the clamps you need. Are you going to use these instead?

I'd imagine they are the size you need, 32-33 mm is the ID of the stock and HPS hoses so as long as you have something that is around that size then you will be okay.

 

The Amazon link i posted opens up to 36mm. Im just waiting to confirm from 12trdtacoma the OD of the new hoses.

 

I'll tell you right now 36mm is going to be a pretty tight squeeze as you have to account for the flare at the end of the adapter that naturally bulges the house outwardly as it rests over it which you will have to slip the clamp over. That is the X factor you can't account for until the hose is installed onto the adapter housing.

 

Might want to up a size.