TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I recently had to add a couple of spacers to shim my idlers out as my pulley was not pressed on enough even though I pressed it on another 1/8 or maybe a bit more not quote 1/4 and was still not enough. I almost lost my belt and was hanging off. switched to the RPM belt and shimmed and been good since.

 

I have dealt with ECGS for warranty rebuilds as well and they have been pretty quick in my experience too. They allowed me to pay a deposit and they sent me another build third so the truck wouldn't be down and just refunded it once they got the old 3rd back. I think it was less than two weeks from the time i placed my warranty claim to having the new diff though and they were a little backed up at the time.

 

nice this is the first warranty. I know that net new orders take some time but they assured me the warranty was first in, first out. So good confirmation from a few folks. I thought about asking for a 3rd deposit so I could swap the same day but forgot to ask them.

 

I don’t......but can tomorrow at the fire house. I also forgot to mention to Jesse and you too that the shop had me go in the back to check my truck when they did this work for me. They showed me everything was lined up.....

 

Dood. Nobody at the dealer messed with your belt.

I dunno man. That thing is pressed on there pretty deep. That belt you’re running isn’t helping anything either. Is that a gatorback? All of those cross cuts are just going to help it claw itself out of its grooves. Just like the lugs on the side of a good off road tire help you climb out of ruts. Fix the alignment and get the RPM belt. It’s the shizzle.

Here’s mine:

 

Time will tell I guess......let’s see if this happens again

 

What makes me so suspicious is I was under my hood just yesterday to disconnect my battery. I didn’t leave from that point to when I went today for the oil change. I hate thinking that, I really do. This dealer here near my house are a bunch of shady cats......both the 3-4 salesmen I’ve dealt with and the counter guys in the service dept. we’ve caught them in a few lies regarding the Camry when they had it for a recall then again when they had it for a warranty issue.

 

Don't know your dealer, @JuanitoBunito, but have known my share of shady ones. Between that, the fact that you observed no belt trouble (for how many miles?) before taking it in, and, IMO, your pulley doesn't appear seated much differently than mine (or others pictured in this thread), I believe it's possible you were setup for failure. FWIW, here's what mine has looked like for almost two years and 14K miles...

Passenger View


Passenger Closeup


Driver's View


Driver's Closeup

 

I really do hate being pessimistic like that. But those are the facts. In fact after the last time when we were lied to about the Camry’s warranty issue, the service guy got fired. Trouble free for 20k miles or so. Time will tell though. If it happens again I’ll man up and admit I was wrong....

 

Dang, @Norton . I'll come by tomorrow and you can detail my engine bay.

 

All these smaller pulleys

 

@Skootter14 hey man these just went up for sale.......
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/doug-thorley-long-tube-headers.705877/#post-25045775

 

I still am surprised that some people are running <2”

 

DUUUUUDE I saw that when it populated in the main feed and “watched” the thread. I’m kicking myself right now.

do I wait and try to sell my std leaf pack and get the URD EL headers or just go with those DT!?!?!?!?

 

URD’s are probably indeed better, guys can chime in as to this. These will work for your application. Good price and gently used. It’s a win also when you sell what’s left of what you got.

 

Gents, I would like y’alls input:

there’s some very gently used DT long tubes for sale (allegedly ran them 2-3 months) then rolled his truck on its side and salvaged what he could to sell. He’s asking 400, I won’t do 400 but I’ll go a little less.

I’m not one to push the boundaries on this modding; I’ll put a 2.8 on but that’s about it. ARE THE URD ELs GOING TO MAKE THAT MUCH MORE OF A DIFFERENCE for the $200+ extra they cost vs my “needs”?

 

<2" is @Athlaos territory.

I'll stick with my 2.5" RIP-modded pulley and @Roostfactor's pulley wrap mod.

 

Considering you can pick up jba long tube headers (same as DT) new for $409.... I think those used DT should be priced closer to $300ish.

Urd equal length LT are $595.

If i was trying to extract as much HP as I can with bolt ons....I would go URD. Especially, if I'm pairing them with a Roost y-pipe.

If I'm on a budget and can use the $200-300 saved on more parts....I would go DT.

 

I was thinking of just grooving the hub and not running a pulley at all

 

the c3 needs a new radiator. . . . Those DTs are looking better and better

Finished up these today.