TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

What was the issue with the cams? I applaud your efforts. Been looking into different routes of rebuild myself. Have seen turbo 1grfe dyno runs of 700hp but I don't think it lasted long. A solid 400-450whp would be ideal for me. Curious on ballpark of the work being done. Engine builders in my area are all working on dirt track V8s, not sure they'd want to touch mine...

 

I dig it......go with a Procharger. If I could make the switch, I would

 

https://engineswapdepot.com/?p=9452

 

Always admired that engine build. When money is of no concern..

 

An absolutely wicked setup. I wonder if its still around

 

Anybody use the NST s/c pulley with their OE rubber harmonic balancer? I'd like to have the s/c parts light weight

 

I was wondering the same thing. Curious if that was due to going down a fun rabbit hole (guilty as charged) or cams/springs caused need for customization if heads/valves.

 

And they are still using the OEM Toyota Filter! How bout that widebody LFA further down?!
I think keeping it sub 450hp will keep the stock 6 spd happy. The T56 is a bit much.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DInFfStbw5g&t=1s
Not sleeved, stock crank!

 

Time to get 100 people to make this group buy happen.

 

Definitely possible. Been there. Will go back soon, after some projects finish and I have time to correct some punch list items on my truck.

 

Question for y'all. Why is it generally accepted 3" merge collector back is appropriate for us? It appears 3 1/4" would be more appropriate for the goal of 400hp. Do we loose too much low end doing 3 1/4"? I'm currently working on trashing my 2.5" merge back for a 3" t304 system.

 

Oh nothing was wrong with the cams. They’re going in the engine. It all started because we wanted to raise the rev limiter and the pistons become a limit to that. Then, well, if you do one thing, then you start thinking that while you’re in there...

 

Because sometimes too much flow is a bad thing.

Also, if you look at the chart, you need to factor in that the max horsepower per pipe is a guideline based upon the pipes arriving before the merge. The max horsepower you can obtain for 2.5" piping PER SIDE is 232 HP for a total of 463 horsepower before you start losing power due to the size constraints. The max size we can fit down there before arriving to the Y safely without having to absolutely Frankenstein the piping is 2.5" I know this because that's what I run and have already been down that road. If you tried that with 3" you would not be able to bend the piping properly before arriving to the Y. You would also put yourself in a case where your piping is capable of moving more CFM than the engine is capable of moving, which would ultimately make you lose power due to too much free movement of air.

As far as your engine is concerned, because you are a 4.5 now and cammed you need to determine how much physical horsepower you are making and then make your piping decisions at that point. That would mean, you need to pony up and go dyno it. HPTuners and these MAF tests are not valid for many of us because we have had Justin rescale the MAF in many instances. The numbers are skewed and off from the original calibrations and tweaked specifically to work for our setups.

Personally many of us have arrived to the point where a true dual exhaust or a hybrid 2 to 1 system right before the muffler SHOULD be mandatory (if you insist on sticking to a single pipe exit alone) By sticking with the OE setup we are limiting our overall room to grow in power down the road when you want to make more mods and you are also having to run much larger piping to compensate for the singular exit design.

We are all making equal to V8 power at this point (especially you Kelby). There is a reason V8's run dual systems the way they do.

 

I believe in @mightytacoman …

 

You can definitely do it if you mandrel bent, but then you run into sizing issues post primary cat openings. Have you seen how big the opening is for the piping post primary cats? It's like 2". To attempt to fit 3" on there would be like trying to shove a square into a circle shape. Lol.

 

While the MAF calibrations may be altered, there are a few things to keep in mind.

1) The stock calibration is "inflated" at higher MAF voltages (airflow).
2) Just because it's been changed does not mean the numbers are invalid (or valid for that matter..)
3) OE data and housings are calibrated in the area's where the engine package is able to operate very well, however outside that range, see #1.
4) If using good injector data (if you have SD61lb/hr or FIC650's you have good data) and your commanded lambda values match your observed lambda values, your MAF is calibrated and you can take that airflow figure (g/sec) to the bank.
5) For any error in the commanded/observed lambda values (assuming injector data is good), you can get the percentage of the fueling error, and apply that to the airflow value (ie: if your fueling is lean 3% in OL, your airflow value is 3% low)

 

I appreciate the input. I'm currently running a dt y-pipe that's 2.25" with factory 2.5" merge back which I feel has gotta be limiting my ponies a bit. The truck hasn't had catalytic converters for a few years now.
Roost will be making my future y pipe with the calculations he feels are appropriate. Dual exhaust just isn't feasible for me with how many other things are stuffed under the bed already (5 gal air tank and ladder bar) plus it's still beat to f**k offroad so I can't have any exhaust hanging too low.
As Justin pointed out maf numbers can be trusted if you take the time to make them accurate. Based on my latest logs- I'm pretty close.

 

What is your estimated power range?

 

If taking maf numbers into account- I would say approaching 450hp at 6200rpm. Dyno will happen once the roost y pipe is on.