TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I have no special skills/experience. I do, however, have an MPVI2 and I've flashed my truck several times with no problems. In short, just another "consumer" of your tuning goodness, who's willing to help my TW brethren. (It's been a while since I last flashed mine, so I look forward to leaning on your FAQ and may "phone a friend" to ensure success...)

Let me know when your travels bring you down to Colo Spgs. I'm in the NE part of the city, just a few miles east of I-25.

 

Yep. Still running it.

I haven’t actually hooked the failsafe up to anything though. One could use it to kill ignition. Or set it to trigger something like meth injection. You can configure it however you like in the software. It’s just a pulse to ground output if I remember correctly.

 

I had LT JBA headers
2.5 inch custom equal length ypipe
3.0 inch after merge with two mufflers
The power gains were best at around 50-90 with no cats

Temporarily now, I got EL headers
Stock ypipe
3.0 inch after merge with same mufflers
The power is lil better 0-40ish
But after that the power diminishes

My point is that where you want max power is also the question to how you set up the exhaust headers back. Personally I like the power band maximized after 35/40 mph since I got a roots blower giving me great power down low.

Also I have some JBA LT headers
And this custom ypipe going for sale soon if anybody is interested. The cats are gutted

 

Just another tax.

 

Exactly.

 

nice parts are starting to arrive.

after the merge what would why you would make part of it flexible?

 

The stock donut gasket allows flex. Since you will be removing that, you need to add something to allow some flex for when the engine is flexing from revving up.

 

Very important, especially with the 'pillow' like stock rubber engine/trans mounts.

 

I'ma start my own pillow company called my toyota engine mounts. Super soft.

 

makes sense. I just want to make sure I ask him to do it in case it doesn’t come up.

yah that makes sense. Good to have regardless. I’ll eventually add some solid mounts. Bonson finally released trans mount as well. Still torn between that and DMz’get my

 

Looking for some advice. Noticed low oil on dip stick for the first time a couple months back. Was suspicious of the PCV or a rear main leak after a cold stretch. Thought maybe the lines to the catch can had frozen vapors and blew something out. Read about similar issues with other models. I've had no drips, barely some wet oil around a couple engine seams, no discolored smoke.
Scott with URD recommended compression test. Engine is indicated 185k mi., probably over 190k with the tall tires.
Mildly warm engine, ~600ft above sea level. All cylinders were 179-183. Not bad at all considering...

Confession, I did the plugs after noticing the oil loss and realized I had swapped to the #6 iridium after trying the #8 and intending to go back to #7 temp range NGK. Doh! Cylinder 2 was very worn and white-ish, ~20k mi.
New plugs are showing the #2 plug is darker than the others after ~200mi.
Thoughts? I was prepared to do a leakdown test if a cylinder was low. I have FIC 650cc injectors ready to install so I can go to the 2.6 pulley but need to have confidence of a healthy motor first. Will have to go to HPtuner at that point.

S/C for +50k mi.
UCON, gears, 170 tstat
DW fuel pump
URD EL headers
URD Y pipe
custom 3" exhaust with single cat
aFe Dry CAI
2.825 pulley
455cc TRD inj
Confused

 

To add. After the initial discovery of lo oil, I topped it off and had a road trip of a ~2500mi and had to add over a quart of oil. I just regeared before the trip so I was at higher RPMs on interstate travel. I had bypassed the catch can before the trip as well. This also led me towards the PCV being stuck open and allowing oil to get sucked into intake and burned. Got home and swapped in the correct plugs and changed the PCV valve. Consumption seems to have slowed but still present.

 

You need both a leak down and compression test. They’re not too bad to do yourself. A shop may charge you 100-200 for the labor since it’s a pain in the but to get to our plugs.

did you fuel efficiency drop significantly?
Does the engine oil look dark/smells even after recent oil change?
Oil spill anywhere?

 

What are you thinking on sudden mpg drop? Or really dark oil? I’m still debating if I have an issue as my MPG had taken a big drop right before the S/C. It’s always super dark when I change it.

 

But he’s loosing oil. Failed oil rings/ decreased compression. At least that’s what happened to mine. Turned into an oily mess in the intake that not even the catch can could manage. Initially I thought I had a faulty PVC but as time went on it declared itself. Was at least able to run it a few months. Freshly changed Oil would turn black after just a few miles.

 

Speaking of oil and higher mileage. Are these higher mileage synthetic oils really better for engines say ~130K?

I’m noticing about 2-4 ounces disappear every 4-5K miles.

 

Oh yah def not that bad. I’m just making sure it’s not another issue creeping up.

 

I did the compression test today. 180 is in spec as far as I know. With that in mind, I do not see a reason for the leak down if nothing is leaking, right?
The #2 plug is an indication of something going on...
Mileage is the same, if not better after the recent gear change.
Power feels strong, getting the right plugs back in was an improvement.
Was your catch can filling with oil?
There is some oil in the S/C housing, but very light.
Oil was dirty at last point of change but is staying clean so far.

 

I installed my own oil catch can but I had more than just combustion oil vapor coming out the pvc.

how’re your front/rear main seals? You might be oozing some oil there. Also check the oil pan and crank case for cracks/seals leaking oil.