TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I mean from the Y pipe back. Which is accurate as the stock set ups have the cats in the exhaust manifold/headers and the y pipe. I think that is the general way to describe since the aftermarket cat-backs are from the Y pipe back. But I can see how it would be misinterpreted.

 

Received my NST pulley today. Any way you guys recommend torquing without an impact wrench? They don't have the holes for locking it into the damper.



Also, what do you guys think of the NST alternator pulley? OE pulleys are steel i assume and has some weight to it. Any negative effects so far? I ask because I purposely kept my harmonic damper to avoid weird vibes, etc, even though it probably wouldn't be noticeable at our rpm range

 

I'm standard so I had it in gear when I torqued.

As for the alt pulley, a good impact is the trick by the sounds of it. I used strap wrenches and a ratchet (due to not having a strong impact) and had a hell of a time keeping the alt pulley from spinning. Ended up using knipex pump pliers which wrecked the stock pulley. Then I noticed that the lip was extremely well hidden in the alt body and I had the non-lipped alt pulley so my truck was down for a month until NST exchanged it for the right pulley lol.

No drawbacks to the alt pulley other than making sure you get the right one. Haven't noticed weird vibrations of any sort with the full pulley set.

 

A lot of work.

If you are an auto, I would recommend finding a friend with an impact gun.

 

I have all the NST pulleys in, as well as a lightweight flywheel. I dont notice any weird vibes or shakes.
As for torquing, I just put the tranny in 6th... if you're talking about the alternator, I had a pair of welding gloves and just grabbed it with the belt on to keep from moving.

 

Thanks for the heads up. @12TRDTacoma and @TheFang for your input too. Looking forward to a gain on response. My set up feels quick already but I thought the magnuson pulley was the heaviest they could make it. Can't wait to see what it do.

 

I think you'll be pleased with the outcome. I'm pretty sure I posted a video up of my truck revving with the NST crank and water pump pulley swap out some time ago on here.

 

I believe you ran auto. I just used an impact to put that sucker on. A few ugga uggas and your set.

 

Heads up California boys. The state denied me re-registration because I have an "active recall" for the air injection system. This now forces us to HAVE to go and take it to the dealer to get inspected regardless if they do the recall or not so we can get some bullshit orange form that we need to turn in with our paperwork to the DMV.

Dude. What sort of fascist neo Nazi state crap BS is this?

 

Welcome to Commiefornia

 

The dealer I spoke to even informed me that they were turning down people for recalls like blower motors. Blower motors don't even AFFECT emissions or safety in any way whatsoever, who cares if it doesn't work?! They do apparently. I'm so mad right now because they just gave me work that I didn't have to on the truck just to be able to get it into the dealer just to get some stupid orange form.

 

California: gEt a eLeKtriC kAR

 

That is so weird, when I got my new shitbox registered it had like 4-5 recalls and I was able to get it registered and titled with just a smog test..

 

I registered mine last year as well no problem. I don't get it man.

 

You think the Milwaukee 1/2" high torque (1400ft#) is too much?

 

Atap on number 1 then 10 ugga uggas on number 2. Mind you this is with a full battery.

 

I used the stubby impact 200 or 250 max torque.
The bug one is 1400 losses. Tighten I think is 400 or so

 

"10 ugga uggas"

 

I wonder when that started. I just smogged mine recently.
Why did you have do it again?

 

It's hard to tell you without looking at the impact gun itself. I usually wind all the guns I have ever used and own to the max setting and then let her rip on the bolt once threaded in correctly. Once it has hit to where it has made contact I tighten until I don't see anymore turning on the bolt or the socket itself, but it depends on the duty of the bolt and what sort of surface it is bolting onto and into. Some threads are more resilient to full cojon contact due to the sheer thread engagement by the bolt. Others will pull quickly once they have been wrenched on if done with too much power or too long. (looking at you supercharger cover lid bolts)

In this particular case you need a torque of around 180-220 ft. lbs. You need to determine the max torque output indicated ft. lbs. as per the guns specification and then make your determinations from there. Given that the amount of torque you will be needing is above average values you should be safe on the max setting and giving it a several good solid uggas uggas once it has fully seated. If you don't see the socket or the bolt turning any longer then don't keep hammering on it because that's how you pull threads, damage seating surfaces, etc.

That being said the peak torque of the milwaukee gun has a breaking torque of around 1400 ft lbs on initial full bang if I remember correctly. The nominal continuous torque especially when tightening is a different story. The moral of this long drawn schpeel is to know your tools value wise (no I'm not talking about dollars) and understand their strengths and weaknesses.

I hope that makes sense.

I live my life by the torque value ugga ugga.

Exemption plates.