TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Wait, I know it's cheaper to register my truck to the cabin in Clear Creek county, do they also have different emission standards too? Or you mean just for cel lights?

 

It still has 2 cats. But I guess you need all 4 in Cali

 

With the front 2 cats installed, you won't have any CELs due to the sensors only monitoring the front two cats. The rear two (which you don't have) are un-monitored. But you will fail a visual inspection due to the fact that our trucks have 4 as stock.

 

In California.

 

I'm not sure what the state requires of you to register a vehicle in a specific place... Maybe it's just a property deed. Maybe it's establishing residency.

 

Usually just a bill or two pieces of mail with your name on the address

 

I wouldn't bother unless you're going to fail.
https://cdphe.colorado.gov/air-emissions/general-emissions-inspection-requirements-and-information
https://cdphe.colorado.gov/air-emissions/metro-denver-and-north-front-range-emissions-inspections

 

Post a pic of the sc coolant tank for the fj so we can look at it

 

Here’s a couple pics. The sc coolant tank is the same, it just looks like it’ll be a tight fit in there since yours is slightly larger than stock

 

It should work. I have the same mounting style in my 2011 taco. But i have the V2 of his SCer Coolant tank Res

 

I prefer it like this as well.

 

It's as I've mentioned before, this sort of methodology comes after experience in doing this type of work. FSM or not.

 

Does not matter as long as you get a full 180°. The angle is to stretch the bolt properly.

 

So let’s play a game. Name these parts


This is what it looked like when I dropped the pan

 

Connecting Rod!!

 

Nope. Something dumb that took some stuff out. I’ll explain in a little bit with pics. Taking shower. Either way, it’s a new engine

 

First a PSA. for anyone that has done or will do exhaust cam gears, make sure you torque, loctite, weld whatever every bold that you touch.

ok, so let me tell you a story. it starts back in 2013. My originial engine decided it wanted to spin a bearing. replaced engine. all this is in my build thread about pages 22-27.

for a while now i have heard a little ting sound here in there and just thought one of the idler pulleys was going bad. will replace at 90k miles (i'm at 85k now) then a few months ago was hearing the sound i hear in the vid above but like no where near as loud and thought probably a clutch since it sounded like thats where it was coming from and ive dropped the transmission for the hydro bearing and also replaced a cracked Tcase. wasnt worried about it. then friday on the way to work all hell breaks loose and the sound is what was heard above in the vids. so all of this was why i was hoping it was transmission related.

so today decided to drain oil and check in the oil pan. you saw the pics above for that.

next decided to look into the timing chain tensioner inspection cover. couldnt see anything

said fuck it, lets take off the valve cover. when that happened a bolt fell off the engine. i was like wtf where was that shit hiding? once the valve cover was out of the way i saw the problem. who can see the problem in the pic?



cant figure it out? let me circle the problem


so the bolt that came out, was the chain tensioner bolt. also, in the pic of all the metal that was found, you should see what looks like a roller bearing. its not, its the dowel pin for the tensioner in the pic above.

here is the under neath of the valve cover. u ucan see were the bolt was smacking the bottom of the valve cover.



not sure where the rest of the metal came from, or how bad the bottom end is, but im gonna go out on the limb and say i need a new engine and also, this was completely my fault and happened from the install of the cam gears when i swapped engines back in 2013. so make sure you torque shit down like it tells you to

 

Nooooo

 

anyone know a part number for a long block from toyota? or a crate engine?