TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Your part, your choice. I think it a worthy idea.

 

I like this idea a lot. The only thing I’d be concerned about going to an M8 stud is whether or not the nut would fit in some of the places on the blower lid. The fins look to be pretty close to the smaller headed bolts Athlaos used. No issue if you’re not afraid of grinding some stuff down. I may try the m6 helicoil and m6 studs before tapping out to the larger bolts. Bigger bolts are a good backup plan

 

I feel the same for the Snout...

 

Yes that little bolt on top is for the stock air box. Now it's just a ground. Extra grounding can't be a bad thing, right? Besides, that threaded hole looked all lonely up there doing nothing, I felt like it needed something to do, so it would feel like it was contributing.

 

Excellent idea with intercooler lid bolts. Are you using the top of your charger for a grounging point? Never mind, it was ansered above.

 

so anyone got a link for the NSK B17-102DG3 bearings?

 

Just for the timkins: https://www.qualitybearingsonline.com/63032rsc3-timken-deep-groove-radial-ball-bearings-17x47x14mm/

and https://www.qualitybearingsonline.com/62032rsc3-timken-deep-groove-radial-ball-bearings-17x40x12mm/ for the other

 

you think this one would work? only reason i ask cuz they only $5 a bearing but have the same dimensions https://bearingsdirect.com/ball-bea...d-6303-2nsl?search_query=6303+2rs&results=729

 

Its tough to find specifications on some of these bearings. I couldn't find the exact replacement from NSK and the Timkins were the only ones that had speed ratings and grease comparable to the application. I've had mine on for two and a half years and still going strong. I'm sure if you have a failure, you're probably hear about before catastrophe. The shipping was very, very fast from the UK for my orders from quality bearings.

 

I have been running Timkens for a while now too and they have been solid for me. I will probably go with them again when it’s time to replace

 

@05Taco4x4

 

Ive heli-coiled two of the kid bolts in mine with good results.

I do like the stud idea @racebug68 maybe we can find some cool ARP style studs with the e-torx heads and some sweet 12-point nuts.

 

I can check

 

Its still beyond me how everyone is managing to strip the lid bolts. I have taken mine off and put them back on a handful of times without a hiccup.

 

same

 

Well, looks like my truck will be going back onto the Dyno in these next two weeks or so. Everyone interested in the performance VVTi solenoids group buy who is a part of this group, @SUMOTNK and myself are going to be working together on both testing and potentially having these readily available to bring to you stateside IF the results are favorable.

 

I learned my lesson when I stripped several bolts of an old IS 250 rear brake job (worst car ever to do rear axle anything). Gotta have bolts clean and avoid over tightening. It’s easy to do if bolts have any grime on them.

 

Interested.

 

Awesome! The solenoid thread is here.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/red-bullet-solenoids-feeler-gb.721327/

 

I guess I'm spoiled since living inland in California provides salt free, humidity free temperatures, so I never have to deal with rusty bolts or anything like that. Regardless, any bolt that ever comes out jacked up on my ride I always wire first, shoot a shot of silicone spray or WD (whatever is available, and then just install back in. It does help when you can gauge your own torque values by sake of your own strength. Time and experience working with all of these vehicles all this time has been the most valuable tool above all at the end of the day.