TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

You guys running the NGK Rutheniums 95125 plugs.. you adjusted Gap right? @12TRDTacoma

hoping to do those and a new PS pump this weekend. just rolled over 130k and last time I did them was at 90k. going to try the swivel method this time and hoping that solves my surging issues.

 

Cometic head gaskets seem to be a brand that people recommend. I will use them for my rebuild. I had about 150k on my engine when i put my supercharger on. I did a compression and leak down before. It passed both so i pulled the trigger. It has been about 20k since the blower, so I don't think it was the cause. MY last oil change was good and this one I just did was not. NO knocking or rattling. Just happen to catch it.

 

The only brand that I am aware of, that caters to the thickness and bore size needs.

 

I didn't, think I asked about that here too and they said no need.

 

I did not adjust the gap and ran as was. I can't remember what their gap was, I think .031 but it was good and hasn't given any issues.

 

Yeah .032". Ok cool. Easy peasy.

 

Oh yeah that's right. They stated .32 but actually came in at .029 when I physically checked them which is perfect for ours. YMMV of course.

 

Toyota and even Felpro are MLS (multi layer) headgasket. You're safe to replace either if you decide to rebuilt the top end. If you have the funds, rebuild the whole thing with confidence it'll go for a long long time. If funds are tight, a headgasket replacement in the bay is a lot of work in my opinion. I went the latter route and spent an additional 500 or so on parts and machining. All the pistons and below looked good. Did the timing chain at the same time and fixed any front cover leaks. But if I would do it over and funds allowed, I would have gone an done pistons, rods, bearings, blueprint etc. @racebug68

 

Blueprint?

 

I think I recapped mine to .44. Seems to run ok. I would have left them alone if it wasn’t going to bother anything.

is less gap gonna be easier for plugs to ignite since these are cooler temp?

 

You need thinner air gap in order for the spark to be able to overcome cylinder pressures that are being artificially created from all that extra air that is getting moved in there from boosted setups that otherwise isn't there in NA setups. Basically you want shorter gap to prevent what is called "spark blow out." The thinner the gap the better for igniting richer mixtures (like we inherently run) also. You don't want too thin though or else misfires will happen.

That being said I have run the NGK Iridium's years back with their stock .040 OE gap with zero issue even at higher boost (10+ psi). More air gap equals a more thorough burn which will net you a little better MPG and smoother runnability of the engine, but increases the chance of misfire down the road due to expanding gap over time or overtaxation of the coils (eventually premature failure) due to the extra juice they need to pump out in order for the spark to ground out on the electrode.

So it's a fine balancing act in which you have to decide which tailors to your needs better.

 

If you have a shop (I suppose you could do it too) then they/you would maximize the power/efficiency for your set up. Throwing random parts at it may work but sometimes having a good builder behind you can help get real results with less headache.

 

Had to do it!

 

I love it.

 

Hey all, just snapped my tensioner arm, is the link to the steeda 555-3347 on page one correct, part says its for a mustang. Sorry for the dumb question and appreciate the help

 

this is wrong, and I'm offended

 

It's ok. I'm a mechanic, I can say it.

 

Designed for mustang, works for us too

 

Thank you, got it ordered.

 

Mounts on our bracket.