TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

i agree. but...maybe by having a seam if its done correctly it shouldnt be a trouble.

 

I agree. It is easier and cheap to cast two smaller parts than machine one larger more complex part.
I say adhere the parts and smooth them out. My only concern would be it any of the jb weld breaks off.

 

Got my new supercharger bearings pressed in A Ok with some large sockets.. bottom 3 were smoked top 2 seemed ok but I replaced them because I could see a lot of grease had leaked out and collected a bunch of dirt on the back side. I didn't get to put the truck back together because I want to replace the engine idlers while I am there... Removing the fan shroud makes this job way easier I have discovered lol. I noticed that the stock bearing setup the lower idler closest to the crank is a double roller while the others are single. I am really wondering if there's a reason toyota didn't make them all the double roller other than price concerns.

 

because they designed a (good) product.
toyota exec's probably didnt consider us hp crazed groups that search for much more.

 

Anyone have a lead on the 50mm double bearing tensioner pulley on page 1? Looks like the LHP brand is out of stock most places.

This looks similar but might align different from the LHP:
https://dedicatedmotorsports.com/dms-50mm-supercharger-idler-pulley/

 

Try emailing them on eBay. They were out of stock when I was looking and they replied they were going to have them soon. Wasn’t too long.

 

How long do the supercharger bearings typically last? I'm at about 85k miles on mine. Did maintenance to it last summer, but only oil, coupler, and SC idler pulley change

 

You got some good life out of them, and if they are not squeaking then you should be fine but I would have it in the back of your mind they could fail soon. Mine started squeaking on cold starts at around 43k miles, at 44k miles it had gotten bad enough I stopped driving the truck until I could get them replaced.
I find it interesting the lower 3 bearings were in the worst shape, while the top two seemed to be in decent shape but there was a lot of rust between the pulley and bearings, so glad I replaced them while I had everything apart.

 

With the stock spring coupler, I had bearing and coupler failure at 90K miles. I had Jon Bond rebuild the unit, sleeve a damaged shaft, all new bearings and a GT500 style coupler and I now have almost 200K miles......I should be scheduling a rebuild here in the immediate future!

 

Make beads of silicone thick. Then let them set for a minute or so. Do a practice run on something else. Let the exterior get just the slightest bit more firm than when it comes out. That way it also acts kind of like a rubber gasket. Then bolt together. Should work perfectly. With easier cleanup.

 

Used JB weld on the top of a cylinder, to keep combustion gasses in. Worked surprisingly well. Did great until 14 psi. 8 psi, it brushed off.

Prep and post cleaning with JB requires a different care and process.

 

Good call. They emailed me back right away with an update they're making more pullies. They even threw me a discount for the wait. Can't beat that kinda customer service.

 

That was the plan if using the Right Stuff.

Ended up going with the JB. Came out good. Much more difficult to work with, but I got excess epoxy to push out of every seam and am now doing a nice slow port job to smooth the seems and match the two halve’s overlaps. There really isn’t a lot to do. The castings are pretty well matched. Maybe 1mm offset max in some spots.

I’ll take a look at port matching to the intake and gasket once I get everything cleaned up.

(It took all 10oz of epoxy to fill in all the voids, maybe an ounce at most pushed out of the seems)

 

Well done. Anxious to see the finished project.

 

Does anyone know the part number for the C clips on our front axles? Rebuilding some LT axles and need to get all new C clips which I think is 4 per axle? tried searching but haven't come up with the part number.

 

CVJ might sell you some.
https://www.cvjreman.com/product-tag/9808/

 

I'll offer it up here first:
I've got an OG mightytacoman SC coolant tank. I bought a second one just to have the screw on cap vs the radiator cap. Nothing wrong with it at all. I did have it powder coated black. Asking what I paid $275.

 

This is just to compare original vs screw on cap.

 

Worth every penny