TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

For the group I may actually have a good viable temporary replacement, however it uses a 6203 bearing rather than a 6303 bearing and is sized a total of 71mm rather than 75.93 mm like the TRD one is sized. So it would spin faster but it would at least get you by temporarily. (At least in theory)

Dayco PN: 89515

 

Good find, I am curious what everyones thoughts are on the double roller bearing design for our trucks through smooth flow. Should we all agree on a specific bearing or two that we want to run? Should one of us contact Nate first and see if he is interested in producing something like this? I imagine we are probably going to have to modify some of the spacers included in the trd system to accept a wider bearing. I am also wondering if we should just choose for being able to stack two sets of the stock sized bearings in the pulleys. I do admit it would be nice to be able to fix a dual roller similar to how the stock engine’s tensioner bearing is setup since it should be a fairly readily available part, I just don’t know if it would be too wide or if it is up for the task spinning as fast as we need it to.

 

Sorry, no dice. Been looking in all the places but I must have tossed it last clean up. If the McGregor Toyota page comes up, I paid $220 through them. Cheapest place I could find

 

I have his number. I just don't want to call him today because A. It's Sunday and B. I'm not sure this is something we could put together in a matter of days. Part of me thinks this is a long game in getting right. Agreeing which is the best bearings to run. Sending in the old pulleys etc. I could call him tomorrow but we still need a donor set, and would need him to agree to this.

Thanks for looking anyways man. I do appreciate that regardless.

 

This has happened to me and quite a few xrunners in the past. Luckily my bearing completely grenaded and the belt just shredded with little damage. But that pulley NEEDS a high end bearing rated for 15-18k RPMs. The tensioner bearing does too.

 

Here it is. The cause of this issue was a direct failure of the bearing retention stud. Lucky me too, the remainder of the stud, broke off inside of the timing cover which means I'll somehow have to extract the remainder of it out.

 

Same as mine. Your pulley looks considerably more chewed up than mine was though. Does the pulley bearing still spin?

Managed to extract the chunk of stud fairly easily. Once the pulley and nut are gone there's not much tension in the remaining piece as long as the threads aren't too buggered.

 

The pulley still spins actually. Pretty darn nicely too I should add. I believe this is nothing more than a result of stud failure. Trouble is. The stud is custom length I'm sure, making it a Toyota specific part. There is no reason why it should have failed though, as everything was right and I always made sure of such.

Further problem is the remaining material in the timing cover is about 3 threads in deep and I have no way to grab it. Got any suggestions what can be used to remove it?

 

i drilled a small hole in the remaining stud and used a screw extractor to get it out. It pretty much spun out just using my fingers to turn the extractor once I got it into the stud.

I ordered a replacement stud from superchargers online after calling magnusson who referred me to them for parts.

 

Got the PN on that stud? Also, what did you remove in order to be able to get access to drill in there, the radiator assembly? Or did you just use a shorty drill? It looks sort of tight-ish in there to be doing all that without removing the radiator.

I have literally less than 100K on this blower and the stud failed without real warning.

We should probably investigate getting some custom made billet studs for us or something. Or maybe something like ARP. This is the second or third failure that I know of with these studs and if I recall right all of them went without warning for no reason whatsoever.

 

Have you ever removed that stud before? Over torqued? Kinda has me thinking about my stud when I replaced that pulley. I can't remember if I used a torque wrench on it or not

 

No I've never removed the stud before. I would periodically make sure it was still tight when I'd be in there messing with the belt or pulleys or something though.

Interestingly enough if you really think about it, that stud is the most load bearing out of the two since it is closest to the crank pulley.

 

I removed the fan shroud and fan it gave me enough room.

M-71-76-10-134 is the part number on my invoice.

Due to being in Canada shipping cost me twice as much as the stud lol

 

Great info. Thank you sir.

 

Drill the small hole, use the stud extractor, may have to retap the threads

 

I have all the TRD supercharger pulleys / idler pulleys off right now - and with all this talk about weak points, I’d be willing to send my stuff anywhere to get a nice long lasting setup.

 

Side note, unfortunate for our buddy Robert’s situation. But the cool thing is that people are still around and chiming in. It seems like we’ve lost a few thread regulars. Good to see our thread can still be alive and thriving.

 

I'm in for all of this if we source a group buy. No failures or problems yet, but I'd replace it all with double rollers tomorrow if we have some made. The potential for failure is just too high. I have the double roller on my tensioner and it felt amazing when I assembled it.

 

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i have some stuff

 

I gotta say. I am mechanically inclined……but I have next to no clues what you guys are talking about other than a couple pulleys and bearings.