TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Rouch tensioner here. I definitely don't want to go back to a stock tensioner cause belt slip was a big issue for me.

 

shit. i changed mine free spinning sounding low on grease. yours just....failed. im glad you didnt have more damage man.

 

Shoot. Well that's good to know because it keeps things helpful but it still isn't because the length is just as important.

 

valid point. im starting to wonder if im on thin ice with it.

 

same here. wonder if ARP makes a brutal strong stud for this. id buy.

 

I wonder if we could get a rough estimate on stud length by measuring the stock pulley bolt, then tape measure from the front of the stock pulley to the end of the stud. Does anyone have one of those bolts laying around?

 

i think one would need to be out for a true measure. great idea!

 

I don't either because of belt slip as well. The pros far outweigh the cons.

Of course none of that means squat if the pros outweighed your cons so hard that they turned back into cons.

I don't know man, I feel like I got pretty hosed anyways. Two pulleys a broken bolt and what will most likely be a real beotch of an extraction.

Plus all the down time, tow bill. Etc etc.

 

The other thing I wonder about, if we go with a much stronger stud at what point do we have to worry about it harming the timing cover it goes into? Or if the stronger one snaps god forbid imagine trying to drill out a hardened stud

 

That was something I was thinking about as well.

Well the weak point is always going to move when you increase strength somewhere. Being that it is the timing cover I really can't see that failing, but anything is possible I guess. I think that stud goes through the timing. Cover and into the block itself, but I could be wrong. It's been a while since I have looked in there without a bolt going through it and it's not like I can do it now anymore. Hahaha.

 

Hmm I think it’ll be a hybrid first. Toyota always late to everything and you would have started seeing more Toyota specific chargers by now unless they use a charger a different brand is gonna use also

 

It is usually caused by winter fuels.

 

Oh hi2u. I've had this happen on an engine block I was rebuilding. I snapped an ARP head stud because there was debris on the threads. It was torque to 90ft-lbs. Did the drill-extract with the Craftsman reverse bit and don't remember it being more difficult.

 

I made some calls today and one of my first ones was to SCOL. They were so kind as to provide me dimensions of the M10 studs. Specs are as follows:

M10 x 5 1/4 or 133.5MM length (the only thing I couldn't get was thread pitch but 1.25 or 1.5 will be fine)
Threads on each side are about 31MM

I'm having trouble locating something locally but the studs cost about $20. I'd really like to get something in grade 8 or better but I don't think it's going to happen.

 

Quick sidenote. We got a newcomer in the game if you want a 50mm double bearing pulley. It actually may be even better than LFP.

https://dedicatedmotorsports.com/dms-50mm-supercharger-idler-pulley/

 

From a quick search this is the only thing I could find close to the dimensions given..

 

Where did you even find that? I typed in what I needed and couldn't find squat.

 

Mcmastercar’s system can be a bit archaic but I searched metric studs which lead me to studs and then I just put in as many dimensions I could from what we have. Nothing good from them in 1.25 pitch as its much longer and threaded the whole way.

 

Getting closer, this states class 8.8 how ever one end of threads is shorter (only 18 mm) https://belmetric.com/m10-double-ended-stud-din-939-class-8-8-steel/?sku=S10X132DBLK

 

You know the thread pitch may be 1.5 actually. I may have to give Magnuson a ring to see if they know the thread pitch on it.