TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Ah the old formula. Thank you sir

 

I'm thinking I'm going to switch back to stock. Now the weak point will be the tensioner with that no slack RPM belt. Lol.

The Roush will be a spare on the side.

I got 13,479 RPM. That is going to be the RPM that larger idler is going to be seeing yeah?

 

The stock super charger pulley was 6.89 based on your thread for crank pulleys. And that’s probably right for the larger one. Now look at the rpm on the tensioner pulley

 

As soon as you get yours all together @12TRDTacoma give me an overall length and I'll see what I can find.

Edit: read all the pages after those posts and see someone already checked Mcmastercarr. They are my go to. Also it seems our stock stud is pretty beefy.

 

That poor pulley

 

Recalculating...

 

As for the microblue bearings…. Yes I can confirm they are definitely applicable. Been running 16k+ RPMs on my setup for over ten years and are just fine.

 

Just a thought, what if we went with slightly larger idlers for the SC? It would decrease the at axle RPM... just spitballing, not even sure if there's room, I'm away from my truck and cant measure.

 

I just want to clarify here.. are you saying that you have not replaced yours in over ten years? Or am I misinterpreting that?

The current issue to overcome is the fact that the clearances are so miniscule that there almost isn't any space to fit the belt in between pulleys to get it on, let alone run anything larger.

 

14,290 RPM on what would be a slightly smaller than the Magnuson version of the pulley, on a 6203 bearing at that, not a 6303 unless I can retrofit a 6303 in of course.

 

Correct. I haven’t replaced my ceramic idler/tensioner SC bearings for 10+ years. But I do repack them with grease about every 30k. Ceramic gives you a longer window to regrease without the bearing being damaged.

Like I said before, I started doing this after xrunners started drying up their bearings. And getting a new custom idler pulley that’s right next to the overdrive pulley is very difficult. As you know. Even more if you have the Overdrive NST Kit!

Ironically the larger Overdrive NST kit is 6.89

 

And I can see the confusion. The recent group buy NST overdrive pulley is 6.5 inches and it’s identical to the stock TRD overdrive pulley diameter. While the obsolete larger Overdrive NST “KIT” that came with a smaller idler and tensioner pulley to compensate is actually 6.89

 

Yeah that's what I thought as well see.

In that case that brings my RPM back down to 13,481.479

 

Hey I found a guy that has URD long tubes with the air injection for sale. I want the sims but he’ll only sell them together. If I buy the setup, would anyone here be interested in a set of longtubes WITHOUT the O2 sims? Headers would be about $600 plus shipping from my house.

 

He also has a UConn, URD y-pipe, and a URD mark lll exhaust. All new

 

Well, some of the carnage has been dealt with.



It pays to keep some of the vital OE parts, especially things like the rotating assembly items!





I am also switching back to the OE tensioner. With that being said, I REFUSE to give up the double bearing roller and it fit without issue on the OE tensioner.

 

Do you have hptuners? Do you need the sims if you have hptuners? I have both....SIMS are still connected but got HPtuners after the fact. Never disconnected the SIMS. IF I don't need them, I MAY be interested in letting them go. Will have to think on it. I've just heard that the SIMS are no longer available, correct?

 

Also on the mark III exhaust. i bought that catback and had to cut, lengthen, and reattach the exhaust tip after the rear axle. The tube was rubbing against the OME Dakar Medium leafs...

 

Sims are no longer available. I’m looking for a new backup set. I do have hp and with it you can disable that feature. There are a couple guys here that don’t bother with the sims. That’s why I was checking to see if someone may want just the headers. I too have the URD mark lll and also had to chop off the tip due to it rubbing on my icon rxt pack.

 

Random thought but do mustangs have the same studs to mount the tensioners? I wonder if they have issues with snapping?