TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I might be fucked here with a capital F. I may wind up needing the timing cover boys. Worse it comes with the water pump and a bunch of other crap that I don't need and the stealer wants $1003 for it.

Anyone in the bay area good with a welder that can weld a nut onto this thing to possibly save it for me?

 

Try popping over to the JD fab thread and see if they can help you out? They're in Escondido. They seem to have a fair amount of CA welders in that thread too

 

JD Fab is in socal. The timing cover will have to come off without question now and I'll have to have an aluminum welder fill to hole then remake it, and retap it. There's just no other way around it now. Either that or get a whole new T cover.

 

Bay Area is San Francisco/San Jose/Oakland/Concord/etc.

 

JB Weld?
Helicoil?

 

The bolt is still inside the cover. It's stuck in there pretty good too. I'm guessing when it was seeing unnecessary torsion before it totally broke it must have stripped the threads enough on the inside for it to be an issue now.

I couldn't get the right angle on it so the drill bits and taps are now eating at some of the material for the cover. There is no way a heli coil will be able to absorb the slack the bits are creating.

 

eBay or auto breakers yard like lkq.

 

Urd sims never worked for my 2015. I wouldn’t bother and just use hptuners

 

I currently use sims. I just want a second set. No one interested in a new set of URD long tubes???

 

Milogen in Milpitas is a great shop and he has pretty good welding skills. He’s done a lot of work on my truck (lots of welding) and he’s one of the only shops in the Bay Area I trust. If you’re interested Message me and I can get you his number.

 

rockauto.com I picked up a timing cover with oil pump new for about $330. I you broke this about a month ago you would have given you my old one.

 

Question. Are the gates and ac delco belts the same? They'll share the same part number. I wanna install my 2.8 but am unsure if I should add the roush now.

 

I suppose that if the bearing started to fail, the inner race could start putting torsional forces into the stud. Would the direction be tightening? So it could’ve over tightened the stud and then wore it down till it snapped?

 

very impressive idea!

 

tempted to buy a backup set.

 

Just wondering if they're studs are stronger. Or long enough. If too long they could be cut down.

 

You need a set of long tubes?

 

Send me his info. Its good to have more resources available.

Ahh shoot. It looks difficult to get to. Despite having everything off they still want you to take off more.

I wouldn't. It's all I question now, the Roush, the studs, the bearings maybe it's time to go back to stock style stuff and keep the boost low. It appears the limitations are apparent now and maybe Magnuson knew that which is why they designed things the way they were.

I actually believe it does so. So what do you to remedy this sort of BS? Blue Loctite followed up by a through jacknut style tightening of the stud?

They're unique to the Mustang, I have no doubt about that, with that being said, ARP DOES sell stronger studs than OE and the chances of them breaking are lessened in comparison to I'd imagine.

 

with stud #s available is it possible their customer service could have a quick solve?

 

Well, we have the Magnuson part number direct from the manufacturer for our trucks so there's that.

Of course I know that doesn't mean anything if they cost a million bucks. There was either a defect in mine or some sort of freak accident, but they do seem well made. Class 10.6 and the equal to Chromoly. That's some pretty heavy duty stuff.