TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

about 3500. and thts before buying new clutch, waterpump, and other gaskets that got replaced during that time

 

They’re going for 4K in my neck of the woods.

 

I came across a a spec of 336 lbs.

 

And just because engine talk, XJ i'm looking to buy has a blown one. And working with builder to replace it with a forged stroker

https://titanengines.com/remanufactured-engines/jeep-stroker-high-performance-forged-4-6-4-7-engine/

And then an eaton m90 down the road

https://www.boostedtech.com/solutio...4-0-liter-6-cylinder-side-mount-supercharger/

 

Harbor freight engine hoist and the bed of a truck. Worked for me. Get the larger HF hoist.

 

And then some of their legendary jacks and jack stands for good measure.

 

Put on small pallet, pick pallet up and put in bed of truck. You're looking at 350 pounds, be it awkward- very doable by yourself

 

Then when you get home, back the truck into your garage, lower the tailgate then mash the skinny pedal. No HF engine hoist needed!

 

i can almost lift that myself. 285 is my limit. not bad for being 5'8" and old.

 

we will meet tailgate to tailgate. getting it out will be entertaining.

 

366# fully serviced! Currently looking for a hoist and looked it up!

 

Just roll it.

 

slide on down was going to be my plan.

 

Maybe a couple of those furniture mover pucks

 

@White lightning boosted Although I'd vote to unload that spare engine with the "tailgate down -->reverse--->slam skinny pedal" method.....

A better idea would be to pick up a couple dudes from your local Home Depot and cradle that 366# to the ground between 3 dudes. $40 spent and no "oh crap, this is gonna hurt" situations.

 

Is it possible to diagnose the leaking valve seals by pulling the valve cover? What would the signs be?

 

No. You could pull the exhaust manifolds and intake to look at the valve and see what is running down the stem. I knew I was burning a lot of oil. It had to be the valve seals or the rings. My compression and leak down wee good, so I did the valve seals. Now that I'm doing the engine for another reason I found that my oil control rings were caked and stuck in the ring groove. After the valve guide seals I seen a large reduction in oil consumption.

 

Anyone need stock valve guide seal? I have some from my engine kit that I will not be using.

 

My oil consumption went from near zero to considerable in the last year. Compression check was near perfect, only a couple leaks that are very mild. Suspecting the valve guides are the culprit.
Lets say a semi novice was going to replace those, what would be involved? I typically stay out of engines and transmissions, but am mechanically inclined so would like to try. I did the whole S/C install, cam gears, built my own cat back, did the diff swaps for a gear change... stuff like that.
And while I am in there without going beyond the heads, what all should be done?

Would this be a good start?
https://www.lceperformance.com/Pro-HD-Dual-Valve-Spring-Retainer-Kit-1GR-4-0-Li-p/1023214.htm
I'll be pushing close to 10psi, so this may be overkill.

 

I would say that kit is way too much. their low boost kit should do just fine if you're looking to up grade. I just did the vitron valve guide seals. I picted them up from rock auto. Also, I'm not sure how much more wear or servicing of the valve lash would come up from the heavier valve seat pressure from the new springs.
To do the repair you will need to remove the cams, and have a in car valve spring compressor kit. I found two people makes it easier. One on the tool the other fitting the keepers. a spark plug pliers work good to remove the old seals, or needle nose with the hoop at the end.