TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I was doing some more research and found that sometimes the exhaust manifold studs can go into a coolant path in the engine. Can anyone verify this? If so, I think I can remove the studs and put some RTV on them. The location makes sense.

 

If you threaded them in to far perhaps, and caused a problem. On this engine.

 

In case anyone is in the PNW and wants a project motor:

$169.69 and scrapped by Sunday

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fs-1gr-motor.759838/#post-27087895

 

This is a good deal for anyone who wants to do a full teardown and rebuild.

 

That's more of a Chevy/ Dodge/ Ford thing.

 

So should I be looking at switching back the the OE tensioner to avoid a catastrophe similar to yours? I have been running the roush tensioner now for about 15k miles and after reading I would rather not have to go through what you went !

 

mines been on about 40k. no problems.

 

I personally would. We did this mod mostly as a group in order to avoid running into issues with the OE tensioner, belt slippage and to add some extra tension to the setup to prevent that slippage, at the time, however, the Gates RPM belt was not available for our application which helps increase traction and grip on the pulleys.

What I suspect happened was that when I called Gates a long time ago (like 6+ years ago) and asked them if they made an OE length 70.5 belt in a 5 rib design like we have on ours. The woman I spoke to said that if they feel there's a demand for it then they'll make it. They may have ran into our thread and saw that there indeed was a demand for it and here we are today.

I had mine on for about 50K or so as well easily, actually 70-75K by my calculations because I ran mine since 70-75K miles on the odometer, then it happened out of nowhere and snapped. I'm not saying it'll happen to everyone, but the fact that the tension on those long studs are doubled with the beef Roush tensioner and then a stud breaks clean off is a cause for concern on running tensioners with more than 45 ft lbs. worth of pressure capability to the supercharger belt.

It may be best just to run and mod the OE tensioner by shaving off some of the tensioner stop nub so it can travel a little more, throw a double bearing idler on it (or not if you are feeling cheap) and calling it a day.

 

i do respect your view on this. as a hp junkie i easily bite on new ideas. im what some call the village explorer. (idiot) i may swing mine back. after all, a chain is only as strong as the weakest link. having a balance may be the way to fewer breakdowns/unwanted surprises.

 

I am with you there. I jumped into the deep end from the get-go Stock to roush, quick change, cam gears, etc.. Def good to know its got years and miles of use. I was thinking the net belt change or if I need to pull the stuff off then maybe give it a shot.

One thing I was curious about. What does the regional roush use to support the extra tension? Assuming its setup in a similar manner have we explored either different studs or other option?

 

I think if we want to run the Roush we would need a center support bar in between the two spacers on the upper and lower idlers and I think that would give it more of an equal distribution between the upper and lower studs. Regardless, I found the OE tensioner with the doubler bearing roller and an RPM belt holds 7.5 PSI stable and doesn't slip whatsoever throughout the RPM range under boost load.

Higher PSI pressures may be a different story but for us non meth injected, efficiency range boost pressured folks this setup nets just peachy all the while providing less stress to both upper and lower idler studs.

The regional Roush on Mustangs and Lightnings use a different tensioner mounting setup alltogether and are less relying on two long studs like ours is.

 

I just read that jba has stopped production on their headers for pickup trucks.

Guys that wanted the jba header for the 1grfe better swoop in now before they're all gone.

This is from DirtyDeeds Industries..

Jbawas just bought by a large private equity firm. They’re afraid the government will fine them for making truckheaders. Trucks are not ‘legit’ racing vehicles.

 

Anyone looking for a brand new set of URD headers? New not used, no sims. I’ll give you a deal

 

too bad no LTs for me. What happened what are you doing instead? I need a 3" Y back setup =)

 

Nope, mine are still in my truck and shiny. This is another set I’m about to pick up (with sims).

 

ahh was this the other guy selling all the stuff?

 

Yeah I got a side deal going with him.

 

I’ll bite… whatcha wanting for em?

To confirm, they are these guys?

https://urdusa.com/urd-spec-u-lt-headers-for-1gr-fe-tacoma-2012-2015-v6/

 

Yes. The are 600 new plus shipping. I’d sell them for $500 plus shipping.

 

3 different people are now messaging me. So if someone wants them ……you gotta claim them. Also, please keep in mind, I don’t have them in my possession just yet.