TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I know there is a disconnect point after the y pipe,,, but put another flange or v-band after the axle,,, on the tail pipe section... so you can take that off and mess with it if needed without the need to put it back on before driving again. Just saying may as well put a flange there, for the tail pipe section, instead of welding it on and making the welded section even longer and a pita to remove/replace.

 

Yes I've talked to several exhaust shops on this very question, and they all told me that different OEMs do it differently, GM famous for after the muffler, Dodge and Ford usually before the muffler, but there are cases within the same manufacturer that they do it differently... and they also said they have changed the order and not noticed anything to write home about. When cancelling sound reflections, it is about the volume of the chambers at our basic level of R&D. For an OEM, with millions of $$ for development and sophisticated measurement devices, and an engine that is stock and unmodified.. they can achieve an exhaust to meet the design constraints for sound, flow, and cost. We then come along, with a very different engine, tune, boost, intake, headers, and start chopping and bolting in stuff to see what effect it has... and NOBODY can claim they know what is best, because it is different on each individual truck, exhaust length, engine mods, etc. What we can agree on though, is there will be bad noises if you don't make for something to cancel them out. No cats and only one muffler won't do it. There has to be reflection points, bends, chambers, etc.. in order for there to be sound cancellation and elimination of buzzing, resonance, etc.

 

Well put.

 

I went ahead and emailed nst as well just to see. I'll put it on and see how it lines up after I change water pump and bearings in s/c pulleys. My s/c tensioner pulley bearing is trashed feels like I'm turning a rachet with my hand. I probably only have 30k on s/c. Also both upper pulleys below s/c pulley are stiff and to not spin freely. Seems like just about every pulley bearing for s/c drive is bad.

 

That sounds about right. They typically have a lifespan of anywhere between 15- 30K depending how fast your blower spins based on it's primary drive pulley size. I wish that was my only problem like a month ago. Lol.

Replace the bearings as necessary. Page 1 has the part numbers.

 

@DocME I agree with you for the purposes of absolute AFR, for tuning purposes, if you want to know what changes to make and you care about 12.0 vs. 12.5 AFR, you need to put the sensor upstream of any cat. However, for the purposes of the majority of us, who aren't running a dual band sensor, I think it makes more sense to put it in the merge after the Y-pipe. I think there is general consensus from my recollection, perhaps from this thread, that after both cats in the OEM system you can expect .2-.4 pts leaner in the AFR reading. What the actual skew amount is shouldn't be the concern though.. But the benefit is that you get to monitor both banks at that point. And the absolute number in my mind for the majority of us that aren't actually tuning on the dyno, is a relative reading on the display... meaning you know if something is way off or way different than previous. In that case my opinion is to put it in the y-pipe merge, much like I saw the exhaust picture from @JuanitoBunito . If the truck was running really good, but read 12.x instead of 12.y, would it matter enough for you to want to change it? Probably not, but if you suddenly saw super lean or super rich compared to previous baselines.. that is when we look into the problem, and shut it down or at least stay out of boost until you know what is the issue.

@Torspd What is the harm of showing / telling what you did to your exhaust that had a magical result on your E36? You don't have assume folks are going to take it as your recommendation on their Tacoma from a picture or description of work done on a different platform?

 

I will be doing y-pipe mods, keeping secondary cats, then vibrant ultra quiet then the magnaflow muffler with helmholtz resonator pictured, and finally a vibrant bottle resonator after the axle up under the bed and working around the sway bar and bamf hangers/ reinforcements.

 

I’m leaning on this too. When will yours be done. I’d love to see some pics.

 

I’m curious, any pictures inside the termination tube? Is it perforated with fiberglass?

 

Helmholtz resonators only work at a specific frequency.

 

I’m sure…….but catless and only my muffler……..I had a specific frequency for days. Edit, it was straight up embarrassing to drive.

 

Should have heard mine when it was catless and dumped under the bed to clear the leafs. Glad my windows were tinted!

 

Ohhhhh, because of my springs, my tail is the same

 

If you are keeping the OEM stock secondary cats for a modified Ypipe I don’t think you need all that. Those OEM cats really restrict air flow and keep the sound resonation to a minimum. My two Maggie’s downstream to my other modified Ypipe with stock secondary cats doesn’t give an exhaust note at all. All I hear is my TRD SC screaming. It’s like all Tremble and no Bass.

 

Yes I was curious too. No, a hemholtz resonator is not packed with anything. It doesn't have flow through it, and thus no need for anything in it. The variable is with volume and length. Magnaflow includes a cap piece, that you can put directly on the muffler, or on the end of the U bend, or add the chamber for final volume/length. That is the tuning. I can get some internal pics. the muffler itself is a straight through, but the internal perforated tube section has a nicely molded in section that connects up the non-flowing section of the system. A hemholtz resonator is for pressure waves, if you get the length and volume correct, you can have an equal and opposite reflection in sound and pressure pulses, impacting the cancellation of sound and smoothing flow pulses. We will see. I'm not sure how long it is going to be before I install the parts and rework the exhaust. I have to first replace my rear axle housing. It is bent, and the rear wheels have about 2.5 degrees of negative camber right now. When I replace, I will be adding a customized OEM X-runner sway bar with my own mounts and links. After the links are set in place, and I weld in a cross tube triangulated reinforcement to the BAMF hangers, then I will know where the exhaust can be routed. And then there is the whole issue of the super charger install and associated complications, because until then my existing exhaust is working just fine...

 

Not for a while I'm afraid. Have other more pressing issues to tackle, and for the time being my exhaust works fine for me

 

They can be tuned for a specific frequency response, but it isn't as though they only work at a specific rpm.... they will be most effective at the tuned frequency and taper off in effectiveness as you move away from that frequency. It may take some trial and error, or some additional maths/sciences to get it optimized, but it is possible and it should be effective across a broad range of rpms to eliminate and or reduce specific frequencies of unwanted sound.

 

I have not seen it on any exhaust system before. Not OEM nor aftermarket. If it works as well as I hope, then it is possibly worthy a patent. Never know until more testing is done.

 

Helmholtz resonators are the ultimate for resonance elimination purposes. A lot of the GM crowd uses them to reduce or eliminate drone entirely on their pushrod powered junkers. Lol. They do work really well for how simple the idea behind them is and for what they are.

If anyone has drone/ rasp/ excessive resonance on their setups then that is a very viable option to go if you like what it sounds like otherwise.

 

That is what I hope to get. Little to no exhaust sound, until you want it to, rev it up, etc. I would like to hear not much more than the blower when I'm in boost, and not much over the stereo when just crusing on the freeway (which BTW, at my weight isn't just an easy cruise... it is a lot of effort just to sustain 75 on mild hills in current form) I can always remove the magnaflow resonator part, cap it shorter, or even leave it open for a second exhaust exit if I want to increase noise and vibrations outside/under the truck...

I will build a flange on each side of the Y pipe with a v-band, that way I can easily make some cat-delete pipes and try those out and see if I can handle it. Also the jury is out on the two mufflers vs one muffler and one resonator, the impact is more dependent on other things than whether it is a muffler or resonator. If we got scientific, it would have to be analyzed for volume and length from the exhaust valve, and in some cases, in some locations smaller could well be better than bigger. And as someone pointed out, a resonator is nothing more than a small muffler.

I think you are right that I won't need all that. But I think the thing that I won't need... is the rear bottle style vibrant resonator. That is in the build list just because... it is only $45 and I would have to buy a piece of stainless tubing if I didn't get it... so I figured why not. It is small, and will fit where I think I want it.