TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I would say the pulley size or type is redundant as they don't affect the pressure being applied to that stud. The tensioner and belt, however, can and do affect the stud directly. Right now I am trying to determine if they were using an RPM belt, since those are no stretch belts.

EDIT: OE tensioner, OE belt.

 

im in favor of that.

 

I was just asking because it can affect things depending on if they have too tight of a belt I would think. I kind of expect the belt to snap before the stud but I’m not an engineer so I could be wrong. I really wonder if we shouldn’t try contacting magnuson and see what the deal is. Even if they don’t admit fault they may agree that the stud should be replaced every so often.

 

The problem is that the setup is such a half baked afterthought that they just slapped it all together without thinking about what possible long term items and areas might need strengthening or need shielding from the blower assembly itself. (the stud issue, and the heater hose rubbing issue)

Needless to say I'm really glad I got a second car now, because these engines with the blower installed are starting to show long term issues that have no easy quick fixes to.

 

JB weld, and loctite. Easy.

 

It's not a loctite issue Tor. These studs aren't backing out and snapping due to vibration. They are potentially snapping (my best guess) is just due to the sheer length and load stress these things have to retain.

And the JB weld thing, yeah, I mean sure, it's easy, but you gotta pull the whole blower off to do it and then you are down for X amount of time because of it too. Some of the folks in here aren't necessarily privy to pulling the blower off, and if they are, may not have the tools necessary to do so.

I'm just thinking about this from a totally dumb car consumer standpoint, not saying anyone in here is, but we gotta think Barney style here.

 

JB Weld Industrial Strength.

 

Rob,

I think he may have been kidding around...

Everyone knows all you need is duct tape and WD-40 - then you can fix anything!

 

I think that should become the new motto of this thread.

"JB Weld that bitch"

 

Speaking of that... you heard of West system epoxy? That's like, stronger than everything. I'd trust my frame to be held together with that stuff.

 

Double Bubble epoxy is the way.

 

Y'all need to use super mighty glue.

 

This intrigues me.

 

I never messed with it anymore after that. The truck has been sitting more often that not over the last year or so. I’ve been on two wheels any time weather permits.

 

can we order the stud of questionable studliness from magnuson and ask companys like arp if they have something close enough to make work?? glue jokes are funny but im sure theres limits on tensil strength and needs for temp changes that glues may compromise. id like to see us as enthusiasts out engineer big companys ideas and build better. we are capable of it. lets do it!

 

I've already done the research on this stud. It is a hardened grade 10 bolt with some 105,000 psi tensile strength.

It's no slouch as far as fasteners go and that's for sure. I still maintain that the primary issue here has to do with the length of it and all of the tension and load stress that these have to handle on a constant basis that makes them go SNAP eventually. They are so long and unsupported in the middle that eventually just give way and give up on you.

This is going to require a machine shop to manufacturer a center tie/ dual spacer setup that replaces the current spacers that are there in order for this to not be a problem anymore.

That is just my opinion, but it's hard to work with a setup that is already manufactured to work and install a certain way in which gives no access once assembled.

 

I wonder how titanium would do in the form of a stud. I know it has good fatigue strength but may not be stiff enough. Any material engineers?

 

The best solution would be proper bracing and mounting for the tensioner itself, if possible. A thicker, stiffer brace than the little thin metal one on the side may help and if another support could be added.

 

I took mine off a few weeks ago at 10k miles and no signs of bends. The upper stud was much more tight but could have been my fault upon install. I checked that the studs were not overly tight since there's plenty of leverage going on those retention studs. Also I know the RPM belts have less deflection in them as well. Might be and idea to keep it close or stock belt deflection. At the risk of belt slippage, you may want to consider options instead of a stiffer belt.

 

Latest breakage was with stock everything.