TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Heat treating or cryo treating perhaps.

 

The fact it is bent or not is moot. These bolts just give way whether or not they are bent. They just snap suddenly and without much warning.

 

Yeah, mine had no sign of bendage whatsoever. Just a clean, fatigue induced break.

 

same. a very clean break, but the stud as a whole was never bent.

 

Thinking about titanium again; maybe it doesn't need to be quite as stiff. I know it has excellent fatique resistance properties so if it can flex tiny amounts (as long as its still stiff enough, talking micro/vibrational flex that you can't see) long term without causing a break it would be a good thing. Again, as long as it's stiff enough overall.

 

Just got off the phone with superchargers online and got one ordered.

$21 for the stud and another $17 for tax + shipping from CA to AL. A little ridiculous on the shipping for a stud but at least I shouldn't have to worry about it for a while!

 

I got hammered worse. Canadian so the shipping cost $35 USD hahahaha

It's bloody ridiculous when the shipping costs as much or more than the part

 

Holy crap! I made out like a bandit compared to you. Still crazy - It would have cost me maybe $8 with my account to ship it from me to them via UPS. And they ship with FedEx. USPS would have likely been under $5...

 

This site is pretty handy. Hasn't lead me astray.

Guess I should include the site...
*https://www.toyodiy.com/

 

My 2 cents. It seem like a vibration induced failure. Figuring out the frequency and installing a small damper on the bracket would solve the problem. Ti stud if it can handle the frequency stress better would be an option. The arp stud in their chromoloy arp2000 series should work as well. How much do we want to spend and how over engineered do we want to go?

 

Whatever it takes so I don't have to deal with it again hahahaha

 

this^^^

 

These bolts provided by Magnuson are made by an outsourced company and they are the equal to a Chromoly bolt BTW. I confirmed that after some long and extensive research over the bolt.

It could very well be a vibration thing that is just working them to the point of fatigue and then suddenly... SNAP.

 

Just brainstorming here but I don’t really think it’s a vibration issue entirely, just how they are snapping right at the cover. It’s like too much force is being applied to the stud with enough leverage to fatigue it. So maybe a solid spacer that connects both studs would be the solution, and I would wager maybe another support bracket off of the tensioner assembly or beef up the current tin metal that is connecting it to the ac compressor.

Is it possible that the tensioner is maxing out in it’s range and that pressure has to transfer somewhere and it’s going to that lowest stud?

 

I don't think it's a max out issue. I have a lot of range on my tensioner because I modified it's stop thanks to Roost's discovery at the time. Other folks I'm not sure. I was using the Roush on mine and that one has all sorts of range on it so I know it wasn't that.

Are you suggesting to ditch the lower setup with the ultra long stud and run a two piece threaded stud to a center coupler spacer? That could potentially relieve stress on the item as a whole, but at the end of the day three pieces are being joined to one so even if the stud was shorter, as a whole it would most likely see the same stresses right at it's base like it currently does.

 

In my mind, I am thinking something that replaces the spacers that go inbetween the supercharger and engine idlers that would be one piece. Not sure if it would make a difference or not but maybe if we had something like that it’s possible we could have a brace coming off of it to somewhere else on the front of the engine? Everything is already crammed in there so not sure that it’s even possible.

 

(sorry to go off tangent from the snapped tensioner stud.....)

I have a sneaky feeling that my alternator is going wonky (@112k miles). A whirling/growling noise appeared underhood from the driver side.

I'm getting 12.2x at the battery (engine off) and 13.8-14.0V (engine on) right when I fire it up. But the battery voltage starts dropping soon after the engine is running down to 12.xx. If I put a load on the electrical (headlights, A/C, etc) with the engine running, I can get it to drop as low as 11.7x volts. Truck feels sluggish off the line and steering feels a little heavier than usual (placebo?)

Once the truck gets going, boost builds fine, and everything feels sort of ok. I'm used to seeing 13.8-14.0V with the engine running/driving. I haven't had any problems starting the truck nor any dimming of lights or anything.

(voltage data was gathered by multimeter and ultragauge ECM voltage output)

Any troubleshooting suggestions or do you guys think my alternator is pretty much the culprit of my electrical woes?

 

im n

im no expert but it sounds likely. id start checking options on a replacement.

 

Many of us have been there at this point Mr. Eddie. Get a 250A one and call it a day. The output is so much nicer and it is so much more capable of handling loads at idle.

Definitely sounds like your alternator is on the fritz now.

 

Low voltage can cause strange issues. Make sure to test your battery out of the truck. May even want to take the alternator out and take it down to test it. It seems odd that the alternator starts out ok then tanks. I would start with a battery test.