TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

https://fb.watch/dcQqEaHAbE/

 

Can't wait to get mine done! What head unit is that?

 

Couldn't say for sure. This truck was tuned remotely. @cemented perhaps you can comment?

 

Got a 0-60 time on that Tundra? Other mods done to it?

 

I'd love to know myself! This truck was remote tuned just after a nice PNW shower. Roads were as expected, less than ideal for that type of testing. The gentleman who owns that truck had the Magnuson tune prior and made 380whp. After our custom tune, the truck was CONSIDERABLY more powerful everywhere compared to the Magnuson tune. I should also note the truck was knocking heavily on the Magnuson tune and was nearly completely in the "low octane" learned state. Our tune, while producing more power, has also enabled the truck to learn up and bring itself out of the low octane learned state it was in and back to using the high octane maps.

I don't recall if it's this truck or one of the other Magnuson S/C'd Tundra's we've done that will be getting on the rollers soon, but we'll have numbers comparing the supplied tune versus ours.

This truck had wheels/tires/gears and a valve body upgrade iirc. @cemented would be able to answer specifics on the truck better than I.

 

I’m not sure of the model, but it is a Sony.

Edit, Sony 9500 ES @scootter82

 

@scootter82

He sent me the previous dyno later and I was wrong at 380. The truck made 458hp/442tq and is set to be dynoned next Tuesday with hopefully larger numbers. Both customers that I’ve done so far are wayyy happier with the way the truck drives and shifts even without boost. Under boost it makes a tremendous amount of more power with smoother delivery. The dyno will reveal overall power gains, but the drivability has increased 10 fold. Both customers have been smiling ear to ear since the tunes.

As far as truck setup, both trucks are running similar mods with the exception of one having the IPT valve body which isn’t really necessary with the tune adjustments. It was more of his way to correct the power delivery and drivability issues he was having which were still not corrected fully. The 1-2 shift on the IPT at low speed is harsh too. Both are 2021 Tundras with 35” tires, 5.29 gears with a limited slip differential, and air filters with exhaust.

 

Is there a preference in replacement LCA bushings? Or any negative experiences with these? I've read about install difficulties with some.

Energy Suspension (ES)
Whiteline
SuperPro

 

I got very few miles out of the Energy suspension replacements. The whiteline bushings were a lifetime replacement for me until I went long travel.

 

Ive got whiteline in both my tacoma and Lexus GX. way better than tock type bushings. altho they are a pain in the ass to install.

 

I'm going with superpro lca. There is another fabricated lca set that has a bj under development. I would look into that pending it's finalization.

 

I've never had issues with Energy stuff. I can't speak for the other guys, so I cannot say.

 

Whitelines from what I read everywhere online were great. I just pulled my LCA’s after 31,000 miles of the whitelines being installed and had some splitting on some of the high stress areas. I honestly am not sure if there’s any bushing aside from a uniball/spherical bearing type would hold up to the abuse I put them through. Take my experience and do with it what you will. I am pretty confident if I drove mostly on the road and did light off-roading they would still be mint.

All this being said I didn’t feel like dealing with replacing them right this second so I tossed them back on the truck. There is no obvious/excessive play even with the splitting.

I’ll probably go with some MOOG LCA’s in the future to save myself the hassle or maybe JD Fab LT kit it’s honestly a toss up

As far as the ES stuff, I can’t comment directly for the LCA bushings but I’ll say I’ve had a trash experience with their steering rack bushings they offer… I could see them splitting and falling apart rather quickly in the LCA if you’re abusing them

 

I also have the whiteline in the LCA, very happy with them. I actually drilled and tapped the bushing for a zerk fitting, and use superlube occasionally, quiet and smooth.

And I echo the comment about GARBAGE bushings for the steering rack from Energy, Holy hell I wish I could go back to stock, or get something else... and that was the same thing that I felt from the energy cab mount bushings... man those sucked, and I blame them for increased cracking on my radiator core support. I don't want anything else from Energy on my truck honestly...

 

Do you think the energy bushings are too hard? My cab bushings have never been quiet since the swap over to energy cab mounts so your comment is starting to make me wonder.

 

Mine seemed too soft. They just wore away in like 10k miles. Not worth the effort.

 

Weird. Mine have been on for ages and haven't had any issues.

Which says to me the same for those either OEM. Vehicle lifestyle.

 

Which bushings in particular were too soft? I've got this incessant squeak over certain bumps that I am starting to wonder if it's one of the cab bushings but I don't want to touch anything until I have more evidence.

 

sqeaks and creaks and clunks... all energy bushings. I dunno if it is too hard or too soft... but they suck bigtime. I tried all the different torques on the bolts and it was pure madness. I went back to OEM new bushings and OMG, night and day difference, quiet and more comfortable. actually used the washers from energy to give me a 1/8" body lift from new, and the new bushings were about 1/4" taller than my used ones. Also, the OEM bushings are 2 different part numbers... the difference is the durometer of the rubber. This is important because of the cantillevering effect created when things flex.

The biggest thing that pissed me off, is the damage done to the radiator core support. That soft rubber bushing needs to flex a lot... because the cab itself flexes on rubber, and the core support is connected rigidly to the cab via the fenders (inner and outer). When the cab flexes a little, the cantilevered core support bushing needs to flex way more. So let that bushing flex, and when it collapses, just get a new $15 one. When you put poly in there, it doesn't flex, and it rips apart the metal of the core support. I closely monitored mine, and had very minor cracking at 160k when I decided to try the energy crap, and it cracked more in 3000 miles than it did in the first 160k. And that is besides all the noise they made, which drove me bonkers. Took that junk out and the cracking slowed way down again...

with the rack bushings... I put in a new rack and reinforced the strap/mount on the passenger side due to it breaking off completely on a friend's truck. Since I welded, I took out the stock bushings that weren't even bad... and put the energy in. now, less than 5k later, I have a variable angle steering wheel and tons of feedback in the steering wheel from any bump or suspension activation event, the bushings are shot, and if I turn hard or hit a rock at an angle, the whole rack shifts over and my steering wheel is crooked, until I pull hard at full lock the other way and re-center the rack in the bushings. Part of the problem is the bushings themselves.. and the other part is the sleeves.. which are larger than the metric bolts,, and the sleeves actually can shift on the bolt itself, even with a huge amount of torque on the bolts. Trust me, it is screwy. I cannot get stock rack bushings, so I need to re-do it, new poly, and try to get a SAE bolt that is a little larger (1/2" instead of 12mm or something) and ream the holes to fit the larger bolt and make it secure. But I'll always be saddled with the shitty poly... I'd like to find someone who can make delrin replacement bushings or something like that, or better yet find some way to recover stock bushings without damaging them...

 

Raptor #6 says ¡Hola Muchachas!