TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

This is an interesting thing. It appears that the durometer of the bushings varies depending where on the truck you need to use them. You can't use too hard on the cab, but you don't want them too soft to where they deform like OE does. You want them harder than the sloppy factory PS rack ones, but the energy ones which are a popular retrofit makes for excessive torque needing to be applied to keep steering wheel play at bay. Same goes for the control arm bushings, etc. etc.

Durometer of the bushings appears to not be a one size fits all deal on these trucks and it's only now become a very apparent thing to me the more we talk about it.

On a sidenote, White line bushings have always gotten nothing but raving reviews from folks who have used them, both on these trucks and on many other different brand models as well, so I would never be uncomfortable recommending them to anyone outside of Energy.

When you are talking about Poly bushings, the options are unfortunately somewhat limited.

 

I realize that more torque is needed. I torqued them as tight as I physically could, holding a wrench on the top was my limiting factor, nothing longer fits up there. So I could apply more torque from bottom with a breaker bar, but couldn't hold it from spinning on the top. I realized this isn't tight enough, so I took it to a local shop and we backed off, and torqued with a big bertha type impact wrench... basically as tight as it would go... I'm sure there is more than 200ft lbs on it... and sure enough, it slipped again afterwards. I think backing up at full lock is actually really tough on the rack?? I think that is when it actually happened last time, and I haven't been able to knock it back to centered since then... my steering wheel is clocked at 11:00 but the truck still drives straight..

I guess I could arrange some cheater bars on the wrench, and try to torque it with a torque wrench or cheater bar... but I have some concerns about the stretch and integrity of the bolt...I know it is a high strength 12mm... but can you torque it REALLY heavy... like 300?

I'm honestly thinking that I need to take it apart, clean everything, make sure there is no spray paint on the frame that could be 'slippery', and assemble with a new set of bushings. Not sure if I will use another energy kit (have on the shelf), or get a Whiteline kit. I like that the energy has a shouldered sleeve, I can see how that stiffens things up, but I also see the benefit of a one piece sleeve that the Whiteline uses with washers on either side. Another thing is to maybe make some knurl marks on the frame and washers to improve bite and reduce slip. assemble dry (or minimal lube on sleeve only just enough to allow it to be assembled, not on bushing to rack interface.

Thoughts?

 

I don't know how I managed to get as much torque as I did without getting the nuts to spin. I think the second time around I may have used a a 1/2" rachet to hold the top while I had my well fed co-worker apply his 300 ft. lbs. of corn fed strength to the bottom of them if remember right.

We were able to get them so tight to the point where we almost thought that if we put anymore we were going to bust the bolts.

We didn't even bother checking what the torque value of that was. We both just knew it was a ton.

It's a really bad design, which works okay for absorbing the slop that the OE setup allows, but the moment you put in some harder bushings all bets are off and you have to get really creative. This only amplifies if you have stiffer bushings in other areas of the suspension, you know, delrin and poly bushings for control arms, uniballs, Delta joints, welded rag joint steering adapter (all things which I have and had at the time).

The only other thing I can say is if you are having issues and it continues to spin then you could always try a specialty 3/4" impact wrench. The REALLY heavy duty type impact gun, get the correct adapter for it to fit a 1/2" socket and give those bolts some hell. We have one at the shop I used to be at and that thing is no slouch. I have not found one fastener that it cannot break free or under torque when tightening.

Ideally you want black poly bushings as they are supposed to have "self lubricating" properties, while red ones are not which is why I try to use black on all the ones I have. I don't think I had an option for the steering rack bushings though and got red.

 

Anyone want to jump over to @chueflee 's thread and help them out? I already pointed them to join us here.

 

That's debatable.

 

Fwiw the motor mounts by Solid Offroad are amazing. I have all three and there's really not any vibes (except positive vibes)

 

I second this. I could hardly tell the difference from OE and everything just feels much more planted when driving now. Nothing but positive vibes from the moment you get them installed, on out for sure.

 

All 3? Or motor and trans motor having 2? But agree some vibes at standstill but not much overall.

 

hopin' the best. kelfords going last steps tonight.
wish me luck. got the best guy i know on it

 

this is a mother i wouldnt suggest this for a fun mod. id rather shut my member in my door before doing this again. we are hours away still.

 

Not fun to do at all, but that exhaust note tho

 

You got it, two motors and one trans.

 

now im fucked. timing cover removed to fix. think im going to sell it if it runs again.

 

Man, I know the pain. I buggered up the timing cover before. Hang in there.

 

Wait what? What happened??

 

actually it was going better.... then he slipped with the timing chain and all but cut off the tip of his finger. im sitting the parking lot of the hospital now. no good.
hes in the ER now

 

this cam install hasnt gone well at all. no more motor mods for me. 1 month of saturdays and a hospital visit are no fun.

 

man. That is bad news. I hope he’s going to be OK.

 

me too. in the ERnow trying to get in. they wont let me. cold and wet in a parking lot.