TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I know a guy who ran 100 shot for a few years. No tuning. He didn't do any damage. We think. He sold it recently. Lol

 

I did some looking into this - it seems the reviews indicate that it runs hotter than normal coolant - but safely so. So essentially, the engine could be tuned to run at a hotter temperature, for which there could be some benefits - however I think the issue we're working on is running cooler, which may not be what this product is capable of doing. I would be worried about runaway overheating where the thermostat is at max open but the temperature continues to climb.

 

Don't run the Roush. Return it.

That's a normal byproduct of running water and whatever coolant alternative you run. It's simply just doing it's job at shedding heat better than the coolant does so it reflects with higher than the normal temperatures you see.

 

Really? Worse than stock?

I have thought of that before - that higher temperatures would happen at the sensor but the engine components themselves are lower temperature.

Still, based on what I read, I am led to believe the heat transfer of the alternative fluid is worse than water.

 

……..I thought the roush was the shit!!!

 

Really return it… should I just stay stock ? Or is their another tensioner I should be looking at ?

 

you will be fine but the recent is a fair warning that it may pose extra stress on the bolt. I am still running it and others are as well. A couple of members had their bolt snap on the pulley but have also heard some stock pulley folks had the same issue.

Keep an eye on it and if anything we may need to consider that stud a wearable part stock or not tensioner. Some folks have gone back to stock one with double roller rather than run the heavier rousch.

its been updated to be at your own risk but seems to be either way it could happen.

 

Yeah. Stock.

 

For the record, I don't have a dog in this fight.

As far as I know there are 2 people that have broken the large stud at the bottom by the crank pulley, the one that holds both an idler for the accessory belt as well as the supercharger belt. Both those people had Roush tensioners and so now there is backlash that the Roush "caused" it. I'm not convinced - 1) that the breakage isn't just from fatigue, a vibration or whatever in the belt itself that stressed the stud beyond the breaking point that would have happened with the stock tensioner too. Remember that fatigue and dynamic forces are far greater than any static forces. 2) that the stock tensioner is any better. It still has tension, and a limited range of movement. I know there are way more than two folks who have documented full breakage of the stock tensioner which I can easily see is motion limited and has stress risers in the flimsy casting. So it could be a pick your poison kind of deal.

Maybe you could get a spare stud, knowing it is a pita to replace and not possible on the side of the road, but the stock tensioner is not a wonderful piece of engineering excellence in my mind. And maybe someday I'll change my mind. If you break the stud you are dead in the water. But if you break a tensioner you can still drive the truck after you take the belt off. Maybe there will be some progress in a super quality stud at some point, like ARP custom age 625+ type of thing.

I think another point to this puzzle is the belt itself, and the blower coupler. If using the gates rpm belt, very rigid, no stretch or give, and you have a solid coupler in the blower, there is likely to be very little torsional vibration damping that is happening, and those torsional vibrations could be showing up as fatigue on the stud. Just a thought.

 

very sound. I recall someone said they had it break on a stock one as well which leads to is it really the tensioner or other factors like you laid out.

 

I'm still on the roushe bandwagon even though I broke a stud. It solved my always slipping belt issues compared to the stock.

 

I'll take my chances. Like I do with everything else...

 

I’ve wondered when those few were having their problems if I haven’t because I never switched my original sized belt and oem tensioner.

 

I think that no matter your setup, adding a SC to the mix is going to make regular OEM parts that normally would never ever break, weaken. Now if you add, like @racebug68 said, a solid coupler, a different belt and/or tensioner, a smaller pulley.... All these things add or subtract from your risk of wearing a part faster. The myriad of different configurations here make it hard to nail down the culprit. It could be one thing, or a combination of things. I think the common denominator is the SC. I like the upgraded tensioner, and will continue to run it.

 

it would be awesome if you had a fully built motor.

 

Nor, am I having any issues with belt slip. (Qwikchange Hub, 2.5" RIP-Modded Pulley, and @Roostfactor's Pulley Wrap Mod FTW!)

 

Whoa, 2.5"? Do you have an upgrade valve body or shift kit?

How about a tune? If so, which one?

 

6MT, so NO valve body or shift kit required, but I do have a TRD Quickshifter w/TRD 6-Spd Knob.

@JustDSM tuned it, going thru a couple of iterations to tweak throttle response for me.

 

I keep forgetting you have a manual.

 

Hot memes off the press for you fools.







And of course an oldie but goodie