TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

@Gilmorec61 i second this. Find a wrecked 2nd gen sport with the larger 8.4” third member and swap that into your truck and add front and rear air lockers then.

should only cost a few hundred for the core.

 

Industrial Nanotech thermal coating (probably hard to get), Cerakote coating, Polydyn coating, ro simply some PTP wrap or Heat Shield Products wrap.

As well as the mentioned hood vents. Which greatly reduce the heat.

 

I have had my supercharger since 2011. I’ve been on 35s since 2013. I regeared in 2014. I have never broken a front or rear diff. Just one cv axle. I also have a crawl box for when I go off-roading so I tend to not give it the beans a lot of times unless I absolutely need to.

Also I am elocked.

 

hmmm still over the 3g factory 8.75 rear? Or is that not as straight forward a swap as I’m thinking?

I’m pretty set on elockers so if I did that that would be 3k alone in Harrop lockers… I’d rather put that $1500 per locker towards the Dana at that point haha

 

I appreciate the input!! Not sure if all that would be worth the benefit the more I think about it. I know the stock manifolds are the most restrictive portions of the exhaust but dang. Just seems like a lot for maybeeee 20-30hp on a vehicle that isn’t a race car lol

 

Not bad; factory elocked?

 

Btw this is when I broke the factory rear diff. At the time I thought I just broke my driveshaft. 1000 miles later the rear end is knocking bad and pull it to find out I busted two teeth off the ring gear

https://youtu.be/fsBxbsUqBOM

 

Yes factory.

 

All what Torspd said. I'll throw in https://www.jet-hot.com/ Used them a looong time ago and was expensive, but worked as advertised. Don't know about their reputation/quality these days. And also, Jet Hot Coating is somewhat "near-ish" to Alabama.

I think the URD headers are worth keeping/using. There are a few 1GR-FE long-tube header manufacturers... but I think the URD headers are the only ones on the market that are equal-length LTs.

 

By the way - Industrial Nanotech. INTK.

 

Dang dude. What freaking size tires are you running? That's probably what contributed to your sheared teeth on your ring gears plus all the weight you were hauling. Lol.

 

Gotta be braver homie, ask me how I know....lol you could entertain shortie headers if they make them for the 12+. If not I don't think you'll miss the 20-30 hp from them on your pro v con list.

 

@Gilmorec61 I'm setup similarly .. 35s, factory elocker, heavy af (6500lbs+), same headers and exhaust, etc. I re-geared to Nitro 4.56s years ago and no issues. definitely helped, especially when I was a little lighter. Since adding even more weight.. I have thought about going to 4.88's.. but I'll probably hold off because the truck is already cruising at 2500-3000 RPM at 75-80 depending on terrain. Havent had any scares or anything.. no sounds, if you have a shop that does it right and sets backlash correctly there shouldnt be any issues.

I also get the same excessive heat from everything. My trans tunnel gets HOT... to the point you can feel it in the cab.. and good luck keeping any drinks in the cup holders cold. I have been thinking of wrapping anythign and everything I could underneath.. and applying some reflective material to the Trans tunnel. I too get that rasp and I've just gotten used to it. Sometimes, in tunnels or overpasses, etc.. it does become more pronounced and it bugs me sometimes.. but.. racetruck. lol IDK if I would want to go back to stock headers tho.. but thats just me.

 

It’s not bigger; still 8” exactly. 8.4” is just a sticky misnomer. It’s a little stronger due to the trusses over the carrier bearings.

mid he wants locker I’d much rather get the 3rd gen OR 8.8 axle. That’s ones bigger in all the important places and still bolts in.

 

@Gilmorec61 :
3. My current exhaust setup has a ton of rasp from 2-3k RPM. I have the URD LT headers to a custom 3” setup from the headers back. I have a 3” vibrant ultra quiet resonator into a 3” RAM muffler. I don’t mind a little volume, although I’d like it to be as quiet as possible. Absolutely can’t stand the rasp though. I was thinking of swapping the muffler with a Walker quiet flow muffler but then have also had recommendations of adding a high flow cat or another resonator. Any suggestions?regarding your exhaust.

What do you have for a y-pipe? Safe to assume no cats? Where does the exhaust end - after axle dump or does it go all the way to the back? I feel like most people without a spare under the bed don't utilize that space for more muffling capacity. Ever thought of adding something under there without taking away from what you have already? Even a bullet muffler, or something long and thin without chambers on a longer exhaust would do wonders IMO.


To all of you that run long tube headers, is heat in the engine bay and trans/tunnel a huge issue to everyone that uses them? I can understand ceramic coated vs. not on headers, but It is hard for me to think that a long tube coated header is hugely different from a log manifold with a cat attached directly to it. But I don't have headers installed yet so...

 

For me, I think the heat is a combination of all the performance upgrades with no cats.. (so hotter exhaust gasses?) and the extra strain on the trans, etc due to the added weight. Not to mention just how hot it gets here in Az doesnt help. just going off what I've experienced and what I THINK is happening and causing it.

 

I have the URD headers AND CSF huge radiator, and a GIANT inter cooler in front of that. Only time I had a heat issue was waiting in a 45 minute drive through line (“happy wife = happy life”) at a just opened Chick-fil-A.. looked down and saw the temp needle at 65% instead of 50.

cooled down instantly after driving through the parking lot to the exit. I also have raptor liner over my truck, which kind of traps heat in…. HOWEVER, I took my engine bay liners out the first time I needed to remove them (years ago) and never put them back in, which I imagine helps airflow.

that instance was enough to make me consider additional cooling options while retaining the sleeper look. Maybe I’ll set something up with an arduino, opto isolated relay a temp sensor and some fans to vent.

regarding rasp.. URD Spec-U exhaust is a work freaking art all. Best exhaust system I’be seen or heard from our trucks. No drone, sounds exotic (Ferrari type) is noticeable enough to hear, fun to drive and isn’t raspy. Also is VERY corrosion resistant. (Left it in island rain for a month and could barely see a change (where anything else starts blowing up).

 

I have thought about the engine - wheel well liners.... that could be a place for heat to escape, and also a place for air to recirculate into the radiator when not moving. Bumpers, intercoolers, winches, skids, and other things hamper air flow into and out of the engine bay. It does seem that louvers on the hood or washers, or leaving the cowl seal out, or something would be beneficial to letting trapped hot air out.

 

I havent ran the wheel liners/splash guards up front for years and I havent seen or noticed a huge difference.. but I'm sure it can only help just getting that much more airflow.

 

I swapped in a more open grill recently.
Amazon has a few options for mesh grills. They even open up those little triangle wings on the edges of the grills for the 2005-2011 models. The one I purchased is no longer available. But for $71 I figured it was worth it. Has that cool fake carbon fiber look too, at least +10hp.

Not sure if it makes a huge difference, but wanted to open up the mouth as much as possible. Should have taken some pre and post data...

One thing to consider when removing the wheel well guards and similar items is upsetting the designed airflow through the grill, around the engine, and out the trans tunnel.
That applies while rolling but would be interesting to see how much the fan can do when comparing the intended airflow with that of a more open engine bay.
I know in some cases, adding some turbulence to the airflow, or liquid, can reach some of the pockets that may stay relatively warm when compared to the focused path.