TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Nice, I kept going back and forth on 2.5 vs 3" and seemed the 3" made the most sense.

 

very cool. too bad LT is not on the cards here. ST is not either but much more passable

 

Jus seemed like very little advantage for 3.0. I try to travel with my dog often as I can and the 3.0 was annoying her. Back to 2.5 and long road trips. Unless I could get a Dyno showing 3.0 definitively showing gains but my butt Dyno wasn't really agreeing.

if I were to do it again , I might consider swapping every two years to get a full LT set up. It's not a difficult job but just time consumption. The wider power band would be worth it as others have pointed out.

 

yah seems like people did a bunch of work to get it quiet with extra res or something in it.

For the LT I think it all depends. seems like every 2 years to be a big pain to swap. I would want more power in low/mid-range rather than high range but if it was not such a pain LT would be the way to go. For now shorties have been shown to show some good gains by the folks using them so its better than stock.

 

Morning doodz

What are causes of leaking valves?

As some of you may remember, I rebuilt the top end of my truck about 6 months ago due to a misfire accompanied by a P219A - Bank 1 Air-Fuel Ratio Imbalance and a P0305 - Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected code.

Did full top end rebuild with all OEM parts/fluids, following all specs in procedure. Machine shop re-worked heads, replacing a single intake valve on cyl # 5 that was burnt. Shop pressure tested heads and all was good.

Fast forward 6 months and ~7,000 miles and I now have P219B code accompanied by a Cylinder 6 misfire code. Compression test reveals lowest comp. on cyl #6 as well lower compression on cyl. # 4 & 5. Keep in mind this comp test was not done warm as it should be, but I do plan on doing another compression test while warm. I also did a wet compression test and numbers didn’t change, indicating poor valve sealing. Comp test results below (second test can likely be ignored, it was done on a cold engine at around freezing)



I’ve located this recall that applies to 2015 year model 1GRFE’s (mine is unfortunately a 13, but wonder if it may apply).

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/MC-10134423-9999.pdf

I’m wondering if when I rebuilt it the first time, I messed up not having the machine shop replace ALL the valves. Wonder if there is a metallurgy issue or something with the valves.

Also wonder if it’s a tune issue - I have it tuned by our local tuner Just DSM but I haven’t had a chance to send him a datalog (which I plan to do soon). I have no reason to believe it is running lean though as the AFR gauge indicates it is on the richer side.

No oil in coolant or coolant in oil. No oil or coolant consumption. Truck hasn’t majorly overheated since install; it has gotten pretty warm a few times due to heat soak idling on trails from the URD headers but hasn’t ever pegged out or blew out coolant.

Truck currently runs but, unlike the first time this issue popped up, the performance is deteriorating MUCH faster than it did before. Truck idles horribly at idle while in gear. Drives and pulls fine but can definitely notice a bit of a power loss under load.

Debating rebuilding again (machine shop said they’d be willing to work with me, depending on what they find once they inspect heads) with new head gaskets and head studs OR just replacing with a low mileage used engine for ~$5k.

Truck has 167k on it

Sucks I’m having a repeat issue just on the opposite bank so soon

Pic of the ole girl causing me all the troubles

 

I’m of no help to you, but my VIN is in the affected list. Only 84k miles on my 2015 (81k boosted).
Maybe I’ll do a compression test when I have the supercharger off for service…

 

Fingers crossed for you man!! It seems to be a very localized issue as I haven’t been able to find many that have struggled with this problem. Mine being a 13 means it’s absolutely not officially listed as an affected unit.

 

ill need to check mine as well. shit, like i need to buy a motor.

 

Did the shop deck your heads and how much did they remove? Could have resulted in a timing issue if too much was removed and/or not properly remedied with thicker HG. Also, tight valves burn. Did you check that valve lash was in spec. FYI, if you got the bucket shims all switched up and valve lash is way out of whack, that could produce low compression readings. Cold vs hot will not make much of a difference here.

 

The shop did deck them taking .006” off of them. Used an OEM HG so no making up for that lost thickness. This issue did not immediately present itself; it didn’t start until about 7k miles post assembly so that makes me doubtful of it being a timing issue (or a mixed up shim issue).

I personally did not check the valve lash, the shop I had do the work had the cams and lashed the valves while they had them - I have no reason to suspect they did it incorrectly although that’s certainly a route I didn’t consider. I’ll have to call them up and confirm they set the lash appropriately.

 

It would take some time for the valve to burn up. 7,000 miles is certainly enough.

when you replace valve stem seals or valve springs it’s easy to mix up the bucket shims. They aren’t labeled either iirc

 

I'm sorry to hear you are STILL having issues brother. Agh that's the worst...

Improper valve lash causing tight valve springs, burnt valves (which are usually a subsequent result of valve lash settings which are on the tight side) prematurely worn valve stem seals, worn valve seats, defective valves themselves (soft metal).

A lot of possibilities here, the only thing I will say it IS NOT is the tune. With compression that far spread apart you have a hard mechanical issue here.

2015 engines did have the most trouble out of all the years for some reason. It's like Toyota cheaped out the hardest that year. Given your troubles, I may actually be more inclined to tell you to buy low mileage used and do your little bit of work to get it tip top (gaskets, fluids, new plugs, what have you) and call it good. Just buy any year beneath 2015.

 

ugh. had i known that i wouldnt have installed my cams.

 

are you having engine problems? if not, dont worry about it. some of yall need to stop worrying about things that probably wont ever happen.

 

i just might be. have a random engine noise that makes me concerned.

 

What's it sound like? These engines are naturally noisy too so I wouldn't hit the panic button just yet.

 

tank tank tank tank. real fast. happens randomly at cruising speed around 1800rpm. not under load or idle. makes me worried. cant afford to do anything about it currently. dont have time to tear it apart in the cold either.

 

just from my experience, look at the bolts that hold the chain tensioners in the heads

 

that is a good lead. it only has happened since the cam install. requires pulling the valve covers yes?

 

If I'm thinking of the section he is describing here it does, but it also sounds like you may be out of timing especially since the issue has happened post cam install.

Sounds like it sort of just bogs when you try and give it juice?