TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Thank you. I'll double check the part numbers. I have an inquiry out with URD also.

 

Will do. Thanks

 

I have run this same clutch now with the heavy flywheel and with the stock flywheel.

In my opinion, the heavy flywheel makes 1st gear more of a pain in the ass than it already is. And to me the heavy flywheel makes daily driving more of a pain as well (stop-n-go traffic, ect). Im sure there’s certain scenarios where the heavy flywheel has its advantages, but it ain’t daily driving

 

its advantage is while off roading. makes it harder to stall out.

 

That's the impression I always had. That the heavier flywheel makes driving and slipping the clutch in first more forgiving. The lighter flywheel definitely makes it a bit more difficult than stock, but is not hard to get used to.

I've heard of super lightweight aluminum flywheels making people not enjoy driving their vehicles.

 

i had URD's Twin disc clutch on before this setup and its way lighter and it took a while for me to get used to that. and didnt take much for it to stall if not carefful.

my current setup i thought i had stalled out the other day while normally driving it and slammed the clutch pedal down and it basically fired back up. was surprised. was in stop and go traffic so i was trying to be gentle taking off to keep the noise down.

 

I'm sure it depends on the driver and vehicle. Love the light flywheel in my gtr.

 

Aluminum?

Poor clutch choice probably also is a contributing factor in those cases. I've got the full NST pulley set and the Urd lightweight steel flywheel and find it to be great fun. Especially with rev hang deleted through Hptuners and the clutch accumulator gone.

Some of those aluminum flywheels drop another 6-8 pounds from the Urd.

 

It's aluminum but with steel friction plate. Had I known about the aluminum pressure plate I would've ordered it with it. But way lighter the the stock clutch.

 

Awesome work there and thanks for the further investigation for us. I'm surprised they didn't move sooner but glad they went to a good home. Now it makes me want to get another set!

 

I'm running the Spec stage 3+ and a URD lightweight flywheel and I think it's the best thing ever. Totally honest. The only thing I wish I had done sooner was have my throttle engage point for my petal adjusted sooner in HPTuners to the spicy version. This helped out so much with engagement. It does take a hot minute for break in, and chatters like a set of dentures on top of a running dryer until break in is done... But now I have zero noise or issue with it.

I deleted rev hang and the clutch accumulator. Also have the full NST lightweight pulley setup. I'm about as light as I can go on spin up.

 

For you guys that have swapped bearings in the idlers.. I just want to confirm that these replacement 6302 bearings (x2) will work for this double bearing setup in the lower idler. The OEM bearing inner sleeve is proud on both sides of the bearings and I'm wondering if the spacing it creates when bolted up is critical. If I'll need a spacer if some sort. Etc

 

For those of you with a 6 speed who have deleted your clutch accumulator, did you notice any difference in where the clutch starts to grab/engage in the pedal travel? I feel like my clutch starts to grab near the top of the pedal, and I am wondering if it’s accumulator related.

 

Yes it is. On my RA61 and RC62 it did the same thing. When I was running the CM hydro bearing it made the start point the slip area larger.

 

I don't recall any change in engagement point when I deleted my accumulator. Engagement is more consistent and linear but, for me, it remains near the top of the pedal.

 

is that on the non supercharger belt system?

 

Mine was all over the place with the accumulator. No two clutches were the same. Deleted and added the hydro throw out, and now it's consistently at the top.

 

Correct. That's my Idler #1. I'm going to need to get some washers/spacers to get the stack up correct. As of now, it's causing my s/c idler that mounts on that same stud to be out of position.

 

Easy fix

 

Lots of moving pieces (part numbers and revisions) for the bearings and stuff. Glad this is all that I need to mess with out of everything.