TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

They're Five-O 750cc injectors

https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/tundra-sequoia-57-46-v8-modified-engines-only/

Edit: also the Prospeed 715cc injectors

 

this is something they are trying

"Since you might not be aware, you can adjust the column and row axis values for all the HPT functions. Your voltage offset shouldn't closely match, it should be identical unless I'm misreading what youre saying. I don't have HPT up but if you right click on the axis then there's an option for row and column axis and you click that and then can edit the values, so if stock it doesn't list 14.5V but Five-O gives that as a value, edit the axis to 14.5V."

 

And the ProSpeed 750's as well, which are a bosch unit

 

A lot of aftermarket pumps have no adequate check valve which results in pressure loss at the rail = slow starts

 

That's the conclusion I came to as well. Both TiAuto 450 267s that I tested leaked down immediately after shut down...but others with 450's are not experiencing this...

I installed a check valve post-filter to "fix" my issue, keeps enough pressure in the rail for the pump to kick on and keep it going.

 

Is the Tundra DI or are they still using MPI?

 

Same old top feed MPI

 

This is why I wanted to tag the tuner! I was running the 750's for the short time the Tundra had the s/c on, and I didn't experience any long starts. So not sure if it's a tuning or mechanical issue/fix

 

MPI is pretty black and white vs DI most of the time, and unless you run ethanol there aren't many settings you can adjust for cranking to decrease a long cranking time, unless your injectors are not scaled correctly. Those issues are usually mechanical related in nature whether it be a faulty check valve (easily remedied obviously), a pump beginning to fail, a faulty FPR, etc.

 

I don't really have a lot to add as I have no idea how they're setting up their fuel and airflow models, what data they're using, how precise they're being with the edits they making, if there are external variables at play (burst fuel lines for example ) or if the injector data they are using is even accurate.

I don't generally see any problems with extended start on larger injectors unless there's a check valve problem or other fuel delivery system problem/airflow modeling issue. Sometimes you can get a hint of extended crank time when you're using very large injectors (~2x factory size) where the stock ECU just simply has a hard time controlling these at such small Inj PW's. The fuel delivery will just not be as precise or consistent with really low Inj PW's and you'll see a bit more oscillation in the fueling/trims when this is a "thing".

 

lol and that's the only time I experienced crank delay, but it was only a few seconds, nothing like they were/are experiencing

 

HAHA! It's all good!

I suspect they've got bad data in their fuel/airflow models or a missing check-valve if they are experiencing extended crank times like that.

 

@12TRDTacoma I have a friend here who is very experienced at extracting annoying broken bolts - his recommendation was use some heat and penetrating lube first, then drill a hole and pound a stud remover into it. If that doesn't work, then keep enlarging the hole until you can fold the threads in on themselves. Hope that helps a bit.

 

I actually got it taken care of yesterday thank God. I was given this very same advice by the person who took care of it for me. They said to shock the bolt and spray some lube in there even if the threads are not rusted or corroded as it can greatly aid with the extraction process. Problem was the threads were so deep into the block that I had no tool that would reach that far and I really didn't want to touch it for that reason out of the fear of making it worse.

 

Just got these after driving on the highway for a bit..

 

OE fuel pump or modified?

 

Modified. Deatschwerks.

 

How much is a bit? I have received the same codes as you trying to accelerate in D/5th. I feel like yours is manual though. I tend to get a plethora when I don't warm up properly.

 

It's Auto. But about 30 miles.. popped up after getting off the highway and leaving the first stop light.

 

MAF/intake related. Those are due to fuel trims being too far out. Could also be an exhaust leak pre-primary O2.