TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

The thread was mess up on mine so @Torspd and I fixed it so we're cutting the material

 

You should also like your answer post. For the triple whammy.

 

Was gonna say the same!

 

Cut and reinstalled, about 30 minutes ago. Just finished the test drive. GTG

 

When. I got laid off they were savvas. Savvas bought them out but figured they didn't change names to keep the name around

 

My idlers are failing. Page one has ceramic bearing replacements for these, but have we determined if it's possible to replace the bearings without buying the entire thing from SC online?

 

I haven't quite gotten to the point of replacement on these yet. You may want to hit up SCOL for info on bearing replacements because they indicate that they are double bearing rollers, and when I looked at them prior to installing them, they seemed like they were special. Not your typical double bearing style rollers where they are literally using two, bit more one case with two rows built into it, hence the "double bearing" name they gave it.

 

Selling my tundra SC

https://www.tundras.com/threads/fs-...or-2007-2021-5-7l-tundra.125992/#post-3219587

 

I must have missed that SCOL has replacement idlers. Is there a link to these or can we add to sticky page?

 

u gotta email/call them and ask to get them. not on their website

 

cool, if it’s like other items we have bugged them about like crank pulley pins they will add later after we all have them

 

Yeah, right now they are not the hottest of items on their site as far as sellers are concerned, but after running them I definitely feel more comfortable about having them over the OE idlers.

 

Question?
I'm about to install the exhaust cam gears and maybe stepping down to 2.7 pulley but I'm reading on page 1 about the adiabatic ranges go out of pick performance under 2.7 pulley. Do I also need to change intake and exhaust valves?

I will also instal a mishimoto radiator already order and a 170 thermostat

 

True adiabatic efficiency will never be achieved. That is something that is achieved in a perfect world, but the key is to stay within good efficiency ranges so you are not creating so much heat that you are actually being robbed of power and driving up horsepower required to turn the blower.

What are your current mods? The exhaust is the first MAJOR bottleneck in the setup, then the intake. Ideally you want to land somewhere in the 6.5-7.5 psi range on these blower unless injecting meth/ water.

 

MODS.
2.8 PULLEY
340 LPH AEM PUMP
URD Equal length headers to y PIPE
Full set NST pulley kit
TRD cold intake
488 gears

UP Coming MODS.
Mishimoto radiator
170 thermostat
Exhaust cam gears

 

SAIS Header side block-off plates

$5 shipped

 

Do SAI, modify the exhaust somehow whether it be a massive dual to Y stock setup or do true duals like I and @Athlaos have and THEN you can run the 2.7. oh, also, you can't run anything smaller than 2.8 without modifying the transmission valve body first or you'll tear the A5 clutches up.

The cam gears will help as well. What is your current boost number at WOT?

 

Not more than 6.5 in this hot Texas weather sometime 7.psi in a cool morning

 

That's pretty good, but if you up the boost you'll gain at least 1-1.5 psi more. And the chance is 50/50 you'll go over that based on the mods you want to do. You can give it a shot, do the Qwikchange and you'll be good worse comes to worse you can change back to a 2.8. the humidity drops your boost and Texas is king for humidity.

 

Haha I think the true duals was the other Canadian, @TodayWasTHeDaY . I am complimented by the mix up though!!