TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I have the ruthenium’s on page one with my 2.8 pulley and have had no problems

 

Stick to factory spec for supercharger plugs or equivalent heat range.

 

On my 2.8 pulley, I went from Ruth's back to the recommended NGKs for the blower application.

 

I'm also running the recommended NKGs with my 2.8

 

I wouldn’t go colder unless you are pushing a ton more power IIRC the first page says over 400 you can go a step colder and be ok.

 

Currently rebuilding the nose drive and pulled the shaft to find this. Guess I need a new main shaft..

 

That looks normal to me. Unless there is really bad pitting or noticeable damage. I would say from the image that's normal wear. I'm not seeing anything out of the ordinary.

 

It doesn't feel too bad but there is a noticeable difference when running my finger across. Definitely a few thousands of depth difference. I reached out to SOL anyway for a replacement nose drive input shaft.

 

Had the opportunity to get a 2015 Auto on the dyno in stock form other than the ProCharger kit. The kit was one of the original ProCharger trucks (installed/tuned at ProCharger's KS location). Super clean/low mile 2015 TRD OR DCSB.

I haven't had one of these on the dyno and was very much looking forward to it. These kits really do have a lot of potential for great numbers but in the 2G's they're a bit of a pain in the butt to calibrate due to the MAF positioning (as discussed in the ProCharger specific thread). I thought you guys might be interested to see a little comparison between a Magnuson and a ProCharger.

Magnuson Truck: OE airbox w/ K&N filter, 2.8" pulley, fuel pump, stock manifolds/exhaust

ProCharger Truck: K&N Conical filter (part of the kit), fuel pump, stock manifolds/exhaust

TRD Tune Magnuson (gear locked) vs ProCharger Tune:


I was quite surprised by this outcome, and frankly the tune that the ProCharged truck came in with left a lot to be desired. The truck was EXTREMELY lean. Thankfully the knock retard pulled a good bit of timing to keep this thing alive. You can see ProCharger is commanding 12.38:1 for the pull, but the factory O2's and our AEM wideband (blue) are confirming the engine is much leaner. This is due to improper calibration data in the airflow model, fuel model, or both. Either way, the factory tune on the ProCharger really holds the performance of that kit back in stock form.



Here are the same two trucks in "tuned" form:



And for anyone interested in the ProCharger stock vs tuned:

 

I have been using 2 steps colder for years. When I pull the plugs, they look really good. Not trying to brag, honest, but I have 16psi boost - so maybe that's why, also water/meth which theoretically keeps the combustion chamber clean.

 

I always feel so dumb reading these dyno charts, but maybe I'm just not seeing the labels... Are the different red/blue lines labeled per truck/variant? I have good vision (no color blindness or contrast issues), but I can barely see that the lines are slightly lighter to signify the "other" truck/setup.

 

The darker line of a given color is HP and the lighter is TQ.

We've got dual Y axis values. Hope that helps.

 

That first one is horrible, can't imagine the driving experience.

 

It was reported to be pretty bad, and would pop CEL's related to improper calibration data being used. Client had this to say the following AM:

“Good morning, truck is running great! Even on cruise control at 80mph feels completely different...I can't believe How bad my truck was until you guys brought new life into the truck...better than it ever has been granny driving or aggressively

Thank you so much for making this happen!”

 

the proof is in the graph, instead of going full vtec club with the stock cal, you made a nice long curve that im sure is so much more fun and usable. fantastic job mate.

 

Finished up the nose drive rebuild. Was pretty easy tbh. I found it quite fun compared to pressing out wheel bearinfs for other vehicles.

 

Stick to factory recommended plugs unless you're making over 150 HP from previous power levels. To be honest, unless you got really extreme mods or external meth/ water injection and making higher boost like @Athlaos I wouldn't even think about going a step colder on plugs.

 

If only the rotor pack could be rebuilt at home...

 

Hey guys, so I've been reading and rereading everything in this thread, it's fantastic! I know I'm a.bit late to the race but I just got my blower put on Thursday. I'm starting to look at doing all the mods I can before going to a professor tuner.

When it comes to the gauges, how/where do you hook them up? Suspension I get, engines are new to me but I think I can figure it out if I'm pointed in the right direction.

Thanks guys

 

Welcome man! Tons of help and fun to be had in here. Hooking gauges is going to be a different animal as everyone hooks theirs up differently. If you are referring to the wideband then I would recommend obtaining power from a source that only runs while the engine is on like the fuel pump or similar, as obtaining power while the engine is off and then starting could reduce the life of the wideband sensor itself (I had to replace mine recently for this very reason). I no longer run my wideband on my Tacoma, but on my Camaro, I have to source a better power. For now I just pull the add a fuse circuit that I added every time I do reflash or something that will heat the sensor prior to ignition on. This will preserve it's life and keep it functional longer.