TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Thats a nice looking setup. I have been going back and forth on finally installing my E fan setup.

 

Need a little advice please.
I’ve been out of the scene for a number of years, so please excuse the newb type questions I have regarding what I need to do.
I own a 2013 X that I built in ‘17. At the time I installed a URD UCON, 7th injector, and I went from a 2.7 to 2.55 stealth URD pulley.

The problem I had after the pulley swap was belt slip, and about that time, life got in the way and I never had the time do fix it.

So finally now I have more time, and I’m thinking I’ll probably just go back to the 2.7 pulley, as it still pulled 10psi with it, and didn’t slip.

So here’s my questions: it’s a pita to remove the old pulley, I’ll need to take the supercharger off and bring it to a shop I know to have it pulled. I don’t have a good puller, and the last time I had to do this I think he put a snap-on puller on it, and still had to heat it with an electric wrap heater to get the pulley off safely.

With that in mind, I realize the skinny belt doesn’t have enough wrap to prevent initial slip when I jump on it. Does anyone still make a wrap kit that might help this? Second, I know if the pulley had grooves it would probably hold the belt better, but I’m guessing the pulley would need to be off for that, so I’m back to square one with that idea.

Finally, if I do pull the 2.55 and go back to a 2.7, would it be worth doing a wrap mod? I can’t recall it ever slipping when I had a 2.7 on it. Also, would it be worth sending the 2.7 stealth pulley out to someone to put grooves in it to decrease possible slip?

Thanks in advance for any help or positive advice. I’ll attach a pic, I’ve always liked the factory look, even though it’s modded, just my personal aesthetics.

 

Page 1 has info on wrap mods and belt lengths for pulley sizes. I would start there before removing the pulley, that may help your issue.

 

@Billy182 welcome back to the fold! Nice X!

I think there's been advancements with the 2nd Gen tacoma aftermarket blower pulley segment since 2017.

For example, I don't think they had the quick change hub stuff back then. Meaning, if you go that route, your pulley size changes could be easier.

As for pulley removal, etc ... I think there's a few more options on an improved removal tool versus just URD these days.

 

I just cannot stomach the idea of going back up a pulley size. It's a religious belief that I hold true to.
I'd verify you are using the ideal belt length for the 2.55" and also upgrade the tensioner. 99% confident that would take care of belt slip.
Page 1 is the way.

 

@rheath08 @SUMOTNK @findingthingsout ,
Thanks for the suggestions. It looks like I have a bit of research to do before I make any decisions.
My supercharger was originally a Magnuson kit, and if I recall correctly it came with a new tensioner. I’ll read up on page 1 and try to find if there’s something better.
Perhaps a new tensioner and a wrap kit would solve my problem, it sure would be a lot easier than trying to get the pulley off.
As far as a quick change pulley, I wouldn’t mind it but at the time I did my build, the only thing I could find available was a URD pulley in red, and the look of it was too much. If it was black I probably would have bought it.

 

Correct, the new kit comes with the additional tensioner. It is part of the additional routing with the added S/C belt. It is separate from the Factory tensioner. There are a few options to upgrade the S/C tensioner to one with a stronger spring; also better pulley bearings for the tensioner.
I doubt you will have slip after that. I am on the 2.6 with the upgraded tensioner and pulley. Slight grinding is required to fit. No pulley wrap mod and I have never noticed belt slippage. Can hit 10lbs on cold days.
Also, you can get the quick change in different colors from vendors besides URD. I have the URD and like it, but you have a cleaner engine bay/theme.

 

I see pictures of the pulley RIP mod, but it looks like you just take a grinder to it?

 

That is weird about the ebrake. Sucks that you have issues. Mine has work good. Maybe due to the revision (?) But I'm looking forward to the st40's once the turbo is done.

 

you can. just make them equal distance from each other.

 

Your ratio is matched better from surface piston to your master cylinder and it works better than the others now. I would keep it that way. Can't beat the maths. You can improve the compound quality though by going more aggressive or something that matches your driving needs like you did earlier with the WW BP10 pads.

My only thing now is the 338 rotor. Are you on a stop tech 338 rotor? I'm curious if the rotor hat depth is matching to the stock t4r 338 rotor? Probably not I assume. Previously searched and only found Ceika design would manufacture a rotor that replaced the stock one for two piece design.

It's probably in my head but removing a heavy asf clutch fan off the end of the water pump snout helped I'm pretty sure. So far so good.

 

Well Master cylinder is failing so might as well throw the 6 piston kit up front at the same time. Luckily we have a lot of Toyota performance shops and they have them in stock, so I grabbed the kit on the way home from work! Let's hope it's not too crazy lol

 

Thanks for this, I’ll try to resolve my belt slipping issue before I resort to a bigger supercharger pulley. It’s kinda funny this thread didn’t start until 3 months after I finished my build in August of 2017, so I never even saw it.

A couple questions though, which tensioner did you go with? I don’t mind spending for a good one, but at the same time, I also don’t want something so strong that I’ll need to worry about studs snapping or bearings wearing out prematurely.
One last thing that I searched for but couldn’t find, what is the billdacat8 wrap mod, and how can I build or buy it? I’m sure the answer is somewhere in the 2400 pages of this thread but I couldn’t find it!

 

FYI - there is a lot of info in the 2440 pages, but the most important and decisive is all on page 1, which is constantly updated.

 

I have the Roush with the 50mm double roller bearing. Been on for ~3 years.

 

The 50mm double bearing roller is the way. Also, we had better studs machined just recently to help prevent snapping while using a heavier duty tensioner to help alleviate belt slippage. One of my idler studs was loose when I replaced it, so just checking for tightness might help prevent snapping.

 

same here. no headaches.

 

Yah Def curious. I wonder if you could use the Wilwood 2 piece setup The Cieka was the one I was looking at as well. I ended up getting a set of DBA 4000 4x4 rotors I was going to toss on but swapped them out before hand. Has to be something out there.

 

Thanks, I’ll start doing some reading from page one. I’ll keep an an eye out for posts regarding the Roush and bearing. Did you do a one-off on the studs, or are these available? I saw the stud replacement issue noted in the opening post, but I’m guessing yours are stronger?
I’m still searching for more info on the billdacat wrap mod. I’m going to try to research this as much as I can before I make any moves.
Thanks again for anybody with more suggestions

 

Well it got crazy lol I can't seem to bleed the brakes "good enough" I might need to limp to a shop with a vacuum maybe