TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

That would be a fat no. Gotta pull plugs and EFI fuse for that. And there’s absolutely no need to prime the oil filter after a change.

 

Are you changing the intake tube diameter or using different maf? I did the 3" FJ tube and FJ maf (spliced wiring) mod and Justin tuned for it with Hptuners. In the end it was an unnecessary mod cause I never came close to maxing airflow before or since due to elevation. Just got caught up in mod hype Hahaha.

I am slowly building an engine (actually only disassembled at this point and various parts ordered) so hopefully those prior mods will come into play more.

 

@scootter82 bought it for his now sold truck and had fitment issues where he ended up having to take a grinder to them. They seem like a waste of money if they don't even fit without having to do your own sheet metal manipulation.

 

Jkg right?
I’m pretty sure “flood mode” is for when it’s flooded, not flooded!
And yes, basically all fuel injected vehicles I’ve ever heard of have a fuel cut-off while cranking with WOT

 

Thanks, I thought it sounded like bs, especially when you can shut it off completely with hptuners. I’ll read up a little more on it.
I’ve got UCON with a stock ECM, I’m guessing the hptuners wouldn’t affect that, especially when all I need to change would be to eliminate the secondary air injection.

 

PULL THE ECU FUSE #1 AND #2. THAT IS WHAT I DID TO PRIM THE OIL SYSTEM AND THE REBUILD. SORRY FOR CAPS.

 

if your trying to stay in the optimal range for the supercharger efficiency range the pulley size and altitude play a roll. if your wanting more power that will be more fuel and air. now if more air is spinning the supercharge faster to create more boost then heat will be a huge by product and will need to be taken into account.

 

If you're going to pay for HP Tuners, why not consider removing the UCON and selling that and just tuning with HP Tuners on the stock ECU? I think in the past several years since the tuning of the OEM 2nd gen ECU has been figured out, there isn't much/any(?) benefit to the UCON anymore.

 

Well, it’s a long story! I finished my “build” in summer of ‘17, after that, life soon got exciting when I found out I was pretty sick from my time spent at ground zero on and after 9/11.
Luckily I survived that round, and in the middle of all that I lost my dad.
He always loved those little Chevy S10’s, and as a tribute to him I bought a low mileage rust free truck from Florida, and with the help of my wife and a few friends, did a frame-off restoration of the truck. To make a long story short, I needed hptuners for that after a cam, heads, port work, headers, trans, just about everything. I bought the home course for hptuners and pretty much self taught myself how to tune.
So, back on point, I already had the UCON, and the truck runs great, including 7th injector controlled by UCON, so imo no need to mess with it unless I have to. If the ucon ever shits the bed for sure I’ll be re-tuning again from the start.
Ps: Unfortunately during the time since I finished the Tacoma and got sick, the truck took a back seat to everything else going on, but now I’ve seemed to find some renewed interest, and would like to finish it up as best I could for next season

 

If you've got a stick shift (are all x-runners stick?) Hptuners is really worth it to reduce the rev hang as well.

 

Yep, all X’s are sticks. To be honest I’ve never really noticed much of a rev hang

 

The issue was that their block off plates are made for the SAIS pump side AND NOT the header side. I wanted to remove the entire SAIS system. Had to grid the screws holes open more to fit on the header side

 

The AFE Momentum GT fitment was far superior than the previous Cai I had. Sealed up 100% with the fender hole

 

i just have block off plates on my headers and removed the emission stuff.

 

+1 have it too.

 

absolutely what you said. i live in a temperate, realitvely cool/cold area. most of the year is really convienient for making boost/hp. being at just above sea level is part of it.

 

IIRC, @Athlaos runs a pulley that's down in 1.x" range.

Spot-on, my friend! 2.5" RIP-modded pulley on a Qwikchange Hub, supported by @Roostfactor's Pulley Wrap Mod, produces ~6-7 psi boost at WOT here (~6K-7K ft elevation).

Count yourself lucky - Rev Hang was horrible for me! Two things made it feel like it should have from the factory - @Trident904's MT Accumulator Delete Kit (no longer available) and @JustDSM's tuning magic (still available).

 

I really wanted to build my engine at the time but that would have changed a $500 timing chain replacement to a $5000 build quick hah. Mod hype is real! I assume the next size up is Tundra maf or custom OD tube. The maf diameter seems fairly safe already and I'm glad to hear for your supporting mods, it holds up. I'm hoping after some similar work on mine and seeing where it goes at the altitude, I'll have some positive results to share.

Chasing the dragon. I know what it'll entail but sometimes I can't let the feeling go. I'll open up the ports and do more with what I have. Maybe stepping down to smaller is a bit over zealous.

 

Any more info? My research was that the new TRD has the CARB but not the Gen 1.

 

Crap, I think you're right and I may have gotten mixed up.

Let me double check the carb eo sticker that I have applied on.. I've been trying to fool smog tech for so long that I may have fooled myself.