TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

The benefit of running pre-cats is accuracy. Post cat you will drop stoic by ~.1 so you would tend to idle around 14.6 vs 14.7. Since you are using the stock Log style exhaust manifolds you get an average of the 3 cylinders.
So the trade off when going to individual tube headers is either deciding to target the measurement from one cylinder, or moving down stream, potentially post cat and getting the average of the 3 cylinders plus a perceived .1 drop in AFR.

 

Why don't you use some rubber or plastic stanchions? You can just drill/screw machine screws and bolt it underneath the plastic.

 

Im still running all 4 cats so the merge would be next to transfer case. Plenty of room but would be fairly inaccurate that far down behind 4 cats correct?

 

That is my understanding. But I don't have direct experience. Is it just an additional .1 richer in measurement? I do not know.
Others have set up 2 AFRs, 1 for each bank. That would be ideal.

 

@IvanhoeTaco they should fit in that way.. that's how I have mine.. one sec, I'll grab pics..

 

As long as im in the 10s at wot and near 14.7 at idle i imagine the reading would be sufficient assuming everything is healthy and running properly

 

@IvanhoeTaco ok, I guess I forgot I used spacers for that very reason.

 

Perfect, thanks for that. Did you have to trim the beauty rings to get them to fit against bracket? Have to dremel the cups out any?

 

Also my bracket looks different than yours...

 

I dont think so.. I'll dig through my build and see if there is any more info. The only other thing I do remember is that the back of the steering wheel (plastic cover) did rub a little bit in certain spots when turning. Like it was making contact on high spots on the plastic. I has since self cleared and has never been an issue.

 

just looks like they thinned out the mount plate, maybe so that the above issue doesnt happen anymore. The small black parts in-between the pods and mount are the spacers I used.

 

@IvanhoeTaco also, try rotating the pods outwards/down (like how mine are), that might give you some clearance.

 

Yep, rotated them all the way down and cups backwards it fits. Gauges are within a hair of touching wheel but it works. Gauges are too tight within the cup backwards so i will hit them with some sandpaper to let them move some.

 

I fit Innovate gauges in mine, which are listed as NOT compatible. The bezels are much wider than AEM or others. I just took some sand paper to the bezel then polished it up with some polishing compound.

I don't have a pic right now though. Also I had to mess with the screws a little otherwise they would make a swoosh sound as I turned the steering wheel.

The cups have to be installed where the flush part of the cup mounts against the plate

 

This is correct, just get to hacking down the bezel



I think I used 600 grit and slowly filed it away. Then took an old rag with ultimate compound, looks relatively factory.

Also word of warning, Innovate doesn't sell replacement faceplates or bezels for their $350+ gauges

 

Pardon me, I'm quick to start cutting. I had to file the massive Innovate gauges. The spaces look like a better option for the aem's

 

I have a single speedhut AFR post all 4 cats, right after both banks merge.
My idle is around 14.6 and wot drops down to high 9s actually when WOT. Decel it'll jump up to 18 or the max as the ecu cuts fuel as it should.
Everything seems pretty normal, even at that distance and post so many cats.
Occasionally the AFR will drop to like the min. at 8 when idling, but i thinks that's more a speedhut problem than a actual condition, as rpms and nothing else changes.

 

I also have some weepage like this my supercharger was fully rebuilt by SCOL in October 2022... doubt they'd warranty the work for this long but I'll give them a call...

 

High 9s is way too rich. I think we should be closer to 10.5 AFR.

 

Nothing a grinder cant fix.