TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Im already 1200$ in from them and I still have to replace my own case and snout bearings.

 

telling the black kettle. ive got 40k in parts to display how expensive this can be.

 

damn. ive got nearly 2k in gauges.

 

I installed new blind housing bearings, snout bearings, rotor bearings, new fluid, all seals (nose drive, rotors, orange heat exchanger, long thin housing gasket, im gasket, tb gasket) for a fraction of that. All it required was alot of cussing, more beers and a lifetime collection of tools.. tbh i dont even think the parts were more than $300

 

so would you do it again? some of us havent done rebuilds. most wont do it as mistakes get costly. tell us your experience please.

 

tools needed, tips, warnings.... we could add knowledge on page 1.

 

At this point in time I've gotten the process down and its honestly not difficult, just tedious. Measure twice and cut once kind of ordeal. I ensured I had plenty of witness marks, double check clearances, reference measurements with awesome online resources such as TW and let her rip. Got alot of my rebuild parts from SCOL and they have been more than helpful.

With the right equipment and know how, I don't see a full rebuild any more difficult than a wheel bearing job for a Honda knuckle.

I've done mild to full sc rebuilds since without any issues at my shop. It's not something I openly offer but I wouldn't be opposed to helping out someone with.

 

Hopefully will have my truck back on the road soon. Axle parts are here. The Truck has been sitting mostly for a year. Besides Oil and filter anything else I should replace? will give MAF a good cleaning.

 

Anyone know where to purchase just the air to water heat exchanger for the MP90? Are there other replacements you all are using? Thanks in advance.

 

Superchargers online has all the spare parts for this. There may be other options too though.

 

Having my TRD tune and my @JustDSM tune, the biggest improvement is the partial throttle enrichment. I drove my rig fully loaded to Mammoth with a Roush Raptor caravaning and on the steeper inclines it wasn’t uncommon to see the TRD ECU doing 14.5-14.7 with 3-4 lbs of boost partial throttle. @JustDSM’s tune is low 12s in same scenario and hits 11 as soon as I go like 70-75% throttle.

Confirmed the same with my innovate logs too, not just looking at gauge.

 

Have you ran the truck at all during that time period? Gas goes bad extremely quick out here. the truck will probably be fine but if you have an external filter it might not be a bad idea to swap that out. Also check your cabin filter incase any critters have decided to make a cozy nest on top of it.

 

Is there a rotor bearing replacement video out that’s helpful?

 

It hasn’t moved much since October and was a fresh tank of gas. No external filter right now so that should be okay.

 

Was there an obvious improvement to performance, or only on the AFR gauge?. Was there any pinging happening at the 3-4psi and 14.5-.7? Admittedly 14.5 seems dangerously lean at that load and boost, but I think we talk about so much in generalizations of target AFR's under boost, that we loose sight of that the only reason to enrich, more than 14.7, is as detonation prevention. Many things increase the likelihood of detonation, including boost pressure, but if you do not have detonation issues with the leaner mixture, then richer is just unnecessarily wasting fuel. I know we all talk about target AFR's while boosted, but all that is general assumption, driven by the average experience of the herd; which does give it general credibility, but does not change the fact that the only reason to ever go richer than Stoic, is as a detonation prevention measure. With the exception of at WOT, where you want max power, so target Best Power at 12.7-13.0, Though WOT and boosted; will almost certainly need richer than 12.7 to prevent detonation; hence the general rule to be in the neighborhood of 11, or richer at WOT. Again, the actual best target is ideally just rich enough to prevent detonation.

You apparently did not melt a piston with the the TRD tune at the leaner mixtures, so would be very interesting to see a data log, with the TRD tune, under load, 3-4Psi at 14.7; and know if there was detonation and if the ECU was cutting timing to combat detonation? Toyota engineers are known to only play Very-safe, so this might suggest that we are playing it Extremely safe, and needlessly running richer than necessary at 3-4 psi boost.

 

TRD vs OTT
-2015 Maggy/TRD S/C , w/ a VERY dirty air filter (green run = cleaned the K&N)

 

Very impressive improvement on the dyno! My comments did not intend to challenge the benefits of the tune overall, and I guess i was silly to ask if there was a performance benefit. CLEARLY by the dyno records, there is considerable advantage at WOT. Emphasis on that the dyno run is at WOT.

But my point is not lost, that at part throttle, and specifically the parameters Morphinator describes, it is hard to deny, that the TRD tune is not damaging to the engine, and Max. power is not the priority at partial throttle, or the driver would Not maintain part throttle. So at these parameters, why be so fuel rich?

 

None at all taken! But thank you for the statement and kind words. I admittedly used the opportunity for a little advertising too But all is well here

Part throttle is enhanced but that's very difficult to demonstrate and provide data on without much more involved tools and analysis.

I too would in no way say the TRD tune is dangerous. It does leave room for improvement in both part throttle and WOT areas, but that's the ultra conservative nature of an OE calibration. My interpretation of what I can see in the calibration - They tuned it to work well, be durable and survive on a tank of regular fuel in the event a mistake on the owner or a pump/station mixup. They went ultra rich to keep the cats cool to ensure they were not servicing them under warranty. I could be off, but that's what I see in the calibration side of things.

We back it off a little for a more street friendly fueling target, and actually bring in a little part throttle enrichment that the TRD tune lacks. In the 5 years or so I've been tuning the boosted 1GR's we've not had a single issue with a slightly leaner mixture commanded.

It should also be noted most of the Toyota motor's I've tuned prefer a richer mixture than what conventional N/A or boosted tuning would typically suggest. The data shows they don't tolerate lean mixtures as well as something like a 4A-GE, B16, or K20 would.

 

On my G35 build there was a knock sensor I would log, but not available on the FJ. My G35 didn’t have any signs of pinging or knock when driving, but the logs detected knock on the sensor that was eliminated with my water methanol setup or Boostane.

That was a 15psi Vortech build, so no WMI or Boostane needed here, but not risking 14s under boost on the 91 fuel here in Cali! Particularly on those mountain roads that I frequent with long steady climbs under load.

I also have the 2.85 pulley, AFE, Headers, and Walbro 2.55 for what it’s worth, so maybe the stock pulley would only be seeing a couple psi at near stoich. It was still rich at WOT on the TRD tune.