TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

lol. no.. the name is In-House Fabrications..

 

What he said, get the tow package alternator I learned my lesson not buying Toyota alternators four alternators and 4 years later

 

Something like this? https://inhousefabrication.com.au/p...ng-dual-4-stainless-steel-snorkel-airbox-kit/

EDIT: I now see that @XPOTRPR already posted a link.
https://www.drt-fabrication.com/product/2016-2023-stainless-steel-snorkel

 

i have the volant intake, as well as S/C obviously and the CSF radiator for the FJ's -- the volant scoop plays with everything nicley.

 

yep. DRT just imports the 2nd/3rd gen versions from them.

 

I kind of like it... Makes me want to get one and paint match MGM to be more stealth.

 

I have the 130A for the tow package and that the minimum I'd replace it with...can go get bent at the dealer for a replacement but was checking to see if there is another option I should be looking at. I'd rather not hack up wiring if I can avoid it and would likely just go with the Toyota replacement if there isn't a plug and play option.

More output would be good to support dual batteries, a fridge that runs 24x7, winching, running the compressor.....all that broverlander stuff.

 

Not really -- but my wheel will go from straight, to shifted left, to shifted right all in a day in the dez. The rack, when shifted to the left (steering wheel to the right) will allow the u joint on the steering shaft where it bolts to the rack will rub slightly on the frame of the truck. conversely, when its straight or to the right (wheel to the left) it will not do do this.

I haven't done anything about it.. but may try to put some locking bolt through the cams into the frame crossmember so it wont shift around, or just get my fab guy to burn in new holes for the larger tundra rack. and use regular bushings.

 

Thank you that's literally all I needed. I'll have to retrofit it to connect to the TRD CAI intake i have because it passed smog. Shouldn't be too hard

 

I also saw afe had one at only 150$, not sure what the difference is

 

Turns out only after 20k miles after a rebuild, it’s leaking oil into the rotor pack Going back to the shop. I might pull the plugs and check them hopefully their still good.

 

Do you have a catch can? I'm curious if that isn't just blow by from the engine. Then again if it is supercharger oil you would know by the smell.. it smells horrid.

 

No catch can, I don’t know to much about the system. Where would the oil be coming from PCV valve?

 

Now that you mentioned it I did check the oil on the charger and it was ok looked to be at the bottom of the fill hole.

 

Yeah you are getting engine oil blow by. Not s/c oil.

 

Issue or is this normal?

 

Some blow-by is normal without a catch can.

 

like norton said it’s normal. Think most people have about a cup fullish maybe in between oil changes. Depends on how your pcv is acting.

 

Totally normal. Your pcv is dumping right into the inlet before the rotors. Mine looked similar when I pulled it off with around 70k miles. I really need to do a catch can. While you have the blower off it’s cheap insurance to replace the pcv valve. Mine was still good but I know people say to swap them out every 100k miles or so. Also clean the intercooler out, I had so much oil stuck to mine it was gross.

 

copy, thanks brother will do!