TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...upercharged-rear-locker-108-800-miles.839761/

Truck for sale. Gonna leave this hear. Truck needs to go quick. Reasonable offers wont be turned down. The truck is already listed at a steal!

 

Still chasing down my vacuum leak issue and currently waiting on my neighbor to bring over his smoke machine. LTFT is still in the 30s, however I did discover that I left a gasket on the old plenum so I put that on the charger this morning. Went ahead and replaced the MAF as well but no joy. My best guess is that the intake manifold gasket could be the issue.



Out of curiosity, why does the TRD installation instructions seem to contradict the sticker diagram that comes with it? Particularly in my case with my truck having VSC? Just learning as I go

 

I noticed that myself when I was installing it, but upon really looking at the ports I just determined they were both vacuum operated and there was zero difference between the two ports so I just ran it how best would work for when I do spark plugs changes with the blower still on.

40 LTFT's is quite a bit. Matter of fact, I believe you may be maxed out in what the fuel trims are capable of doing. If your intake housing is larger than OE (3" is OE, 3.5" and up requires recalibration of the MAF) or you have a bad MAF itself. No amount of MAF cleaning is going to fix that. If your intake gaskets are seated incorrectly or not at all, that will also do it. Stock fuel pump? That could also be failing or be the cause of your issues.

 

Good to know! I'm running a Magnum Force Stage 2 so I should be good there. I grabbed a new MAF today from the dealership but no change unfortunately. I do have an AEM fuel pump that still needs to be installed so I guess there's no better time than now.

Between the AFE and Gen 2 TRD intake with the FJ mods, is one better than the other or is the difference negligible? I do get the CARB compliance stuff and the benefits of the larger tube. I have both actually but deciding which one I should run with my setup.

Hopefully the smoke test will reveal the culprit.

 

You know if I were you I would check the fuel pressure before even changing the pump. I would change it regardless but in order to tackle the problem head on directly it's best to check the pressure first.

I wouldn't even worry about intake stuff unless you have big plans to add more power. Even then, it's really not super necessary unless you have emissions issues like we do in the yellow state. Are you located out here or are you in another state free of inspections?

Whatever you got going on is being seen as a LARGE leak according to the computer. Is this the TRD tune or the Bullydog tune?

 

Out of state in wild GA. It has the TRD tune but I'll eventually move to the OTT tune once I have everything installed (primarily fuel pump and ypipe) And after the smoke test, I did find the culprit. Intake manifold gasket. Thats what I get for seating the charger by myself. I'll be tackling that with a buddy this weekend.

 

Beautiful. I knew it had to be something major. I don't know how you couldn't manage seating the blower on yourself? I usually do it in two stages. One to get it up and I rest it on the radiator support bulkhead then I get up on the truck engine bay and get situated and proceed to mount it carefully myself. This was how I did it for the Tacoma, and the Camaro and it all worked out real nice in the end. It's a method of install that I have adapted over the years and 10/10 times it works.

 

I guess I chalk it up to a rookie mistake. If memory serves me right, it may have been when I had to slightly shift it to align the driver side brackets. I should have just not been lazy and just loosened the bracket a little to get a better alignment. Experience is the best teacher. Glad I'm learning so much from this community and thanks to all who's offered guidance along the way!

 

I hate those side brackets! I drilled out the holes a bit to have some more play while aligning.

 

I'm good to go and the truck absolutely rips! Come to find out, I had 3 completely loose bolts under the intercooler! Not even hand tightened. After torquing to spec, all is good and fuel trims are where they need to be. It must have been one of those nights where I just wasn't paying attention or I got too excited and ahead of myself. Truck stays nice and cool with the CSF radiator as well. Next will be gauges and AEM fuel pump. Can't wait for the OTT tune as well.

 

Gauges in!

 

Update, I continued to run the non UCON version of my truck when the weather was not hot and did not get a coil failure or code.

So once passed a ton of work and when it cooled down a bit, I decided to put the UCON back in, my tech had pulled it out for me. One thing I found right away was the Extension Harness used specifically for use with the 7th injector. I had forgotten it was even used because I did not do the original install, just assumed the input for the injector was on a dedicated input.

The wiring on the lines for the injector were done correctly but none of the unused wires were capped or taped in any way, I was quite taken aback by that. So to further trouble shoot, I ran with the UCON installed but did not plug the 7th injector back in right away. It ran fine, much better than before and the fueling looked good in the normal range of use.

So I took it upon my self to remove all the unused wires and plugs from the harness (PITA) and then plugged it back in. Getting more into the juice, the fueling looks great, power in the mid range is actually quite amazing and not a single code and I have been driving it quite a bit lately.

I hope this takes care of it, I would like to hold off on getting a new truck for a couple more years until the bugs are worked out of the new gen 4's.

 

Need a little advice regarding HP Tuners. I'm currently running a UCON and at this time (at least for now), I don't intend on removing it. However, in my recently renewed quest for more power and improvements, I bought an equal length header set from URD to replace my current Doug Thorley headers. This weekend I plan to read the ECU with HP Tuners and change a few things. My question to the group would be, what can I remove while I'm in there? Inspections are not an issue where I live, so anything goes.
My plan so far is to remove secondary air injection and adjust limp mode limits. Is there anything else I'm not thinking of like rev hang or throttle response?
My truck is a 2013 X-Runner.
Thanks for any help!

 

Crossposted but figured I'd post here as well...
I'm currently planning out my exhaust upgrade. Has anyone had any experience with Valvetronics Universal Muffler? Seems it's used across alot of vehicle platforms. Curious to see if anyone here has it on a forced induction system?

https://valvetronic.com/products/universal-valved-exhaust-kit?variant=39496534818852

 

Alright men, it's time to help a brother out of possible. Does anyone have any experience with PWM based setups, namely for fuel pumps? I am in the middle of trying to solve a PWM fuel pump controller/ factory control module control issue on a DW440 brushless fuel pump I installed in my Camaro which had a previously failing factory fuel pump. It's Saturday and DW is closed right now as luck would usually have it. I'm using HPTuners to address the issue without much solve. It primes up and everything, but pressure after cranking is a fat 0 psi.

If you know anything about anything, please, your help would be much appreciated.

 

I know the low level electronics about PWM, but not details on the fuel pump or controller.
My first question would be - is the fuel pump designed to work with PWM?
Is the voltage range put out by the controller compatible with the fuel pump?
I'd double check the spec sheets on both to ensure it's compatible.

Maybe the duty cycle (% of the pulse is on vs off) needs to be increased to run the pump.

It kind of sounds like once the engine is running, the controller is shutting off or reducing the PWM too much. Can you confirm this from logs?

 

I'm going to DM you about it so it doesn't derail the thread, but short answer is, yeah it sounds exactly like the controller is shutting off as soon as crank occurs.

 

Damn it. You guys jinxed me!

Lower stud let go yesterday. Trashed the lower ribbed pulley and chewed up the timing cover at the stud boss a bit. Main crank pulley has some scratching but will be fine.

As for the cause, I think the wear marks from the nuts at the ends of the studs wearing into the tensioner bracket speak volumes. Things loosened up. Going back together, I will be using some method to keep those studs from backing out. Either a medium or low strength thread locker where they thread into the motor and nylocks and/or double nut at the ends.

 

And another one bites the dust. Damn man, I'm sorry you had to experience that. It sucks right?! We may either have to start using thread locked on the studs indeed. (Blue not red) And/ or jamnut it once the stud itself is on in order to prevent the studs from loosening up from vibration and such.

 

Yeah. Need to find the right threadlocker. I’d hate to break another stud and then have to deal with a busted end that is glued in to the front of the engine.