TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Yeah I can give it a shot. Just let me know when you get them switched out.

 

Long time no talk, been lurking still. I’ve had a weird sequence of events lately. Chasing down a P219A. I’ve swapped AF sensors bank to bank with no change. I am checking for any exhaust leaks today. New plugs, (remind me never to do that again with SC on). Had a couple complete drop offs during hard tip in under load to the point of misfire. No code for specific cylinder and immediately clears upon shut off and restart. New MAF as well. I have a feeling it is fuel related. Going to do some logging today and see if I can check rail pressure. May be a tired fuel pump but not completely sure. Bank 1 is at the end of the line before return so figured it would see the drop off first. Other than that I also am not sure if the injectors may need some cleaning or purging. I don’t use any additives. Finally, going to see if I can overlay a relative compression check with the scanner to check each cylinder to another. At the end of the day, Bank 1 is naked down there, THANK JESUS, so I can at least easily do a wet and dry compression. It still is pulling pretty hard and I haven’t noticed any drop off at all once out of the hole, just stumbling on the way.

I did add some Torque Converter additive at it what shuddering a little coming out of overdrive, 5-4. That definitely smoothed some things out but it may not have much life left on it.

More to follow!!

@12TRDTacoma can’t thank you enough for maintaining this thread, especially PAGE 1. I reference it all the time.

 

Hey Zipp. Haven't seen you in a long time!

Your 219A code is a little concerning... I have diagnosed one of those before and it got ugly as far as time to diagnose was concerned on a 2014. Ended up being scorched fuel injector tips due to a defective fuel pump.

Are you all stock? Obviously I know you have the TRD injectors. You may want to do the compression test, and definitely do a cylinder leakage test on all 6 cylinders as well. If possible do a dynamic compression test as well to ensure you aren't getting false info from a static compression test.

How many miles you got on your truck?

 

Thanks brother. I just did some logging. Both LT trims are upwards of 25-28.

133K
650cc FIC injectors
320lph Fuel pump

Harsher winters up here. I’m sure that affects some things differently.

 

Wow. You got some pretty high long terms. You may be close to maxed out actually. Never discount the possibility of fueling issues but I would definitely do some mechanical checks before that. If all of that checks out, start doing some sensor checks. Mostly the MAF, coolant sensor. Check your sensor 2 O2 sensor reports as well.

I've gone through the ringer attempting to diagnose these trucks in the past. All successful, but it really cost me several nights to a week long worth of sleep. I've seen some seriously weird stuff in the process, so with some information on your end I can definitely help get you pointed in the right direction.

 

Go true vented hood!

IIVTEOQE Hood with Scoop for Toyota for Tacoma 2012-2015 Steel Primed Factory Style

https://www.amazon.com/IIVTEOQE-Toyota-Tacoma-2012-2015-Factory/dp/B0DJSH9587

 

Man the hood scoop plastic on my hood is fading and ugly looking compared to the rest of the hood. The paint fading or clear coat peeling on this truck has made me somewhat lose my pride of maintenance on this thing to be honest.

 

I am pulling mine off and painting it separately.

 

Yeah, the paint sucks so I stopped caring. My plan is to just prevent rust at this point...no need for a like new finish.

 

I'm in the process of wet sanding down the corrupted clear coat just to get it smooth again - then slapping vinyl on it. It is working, just takes time. Doing it one section per day I get time to do it.

 

Mine is so fried that the hood needs to be stripped and primed even for vinyl. A shop quoted $1,500 to do the hood and roof.

I'll probably just hit it with a few coats of patina protector and call it good.

 

I was quoted 8k-8500 for a complete paint job with only a 3 year warranty.

 

Drive down to Mexico for a quote/paint job

 

So it turns out I'm not the only one dealing with this dog crap worth of paint issue on my truck. Lol. Good to know we are all dealing with this together. Even though it shouldn't be happening this soon. I miss the old car paint. That stuff was crazy durable.

 

So, update on my shit. I've had two bad cats for a little while now. Well the start to come apart and on my way home from work Friday I had to limp it home in fail safe mode with a constant misfire. I was thinking it was the cats causing it. I spent all day replacing all four cats and welding on the shorty headers on the new cats from the old ones. During the repair I found large amounts of oil in cyl 6 exhaust port and down through the header and cat. Start the truck up and still has a misfire. Tomorrow diagnosis why there is oil in cycle 6 and the misfire.
Wish me luck for something easy.

 

Oh boy. That doesn't sound good at all. Especially given the fact that there's a misfire accompanied with that oil leak. Hoping for the best, but I'm expecting something not very good.

 

Head gasket? I dunno random guess.

I did that myself, a little wet sanding and some primer filler from a rattle can, followed my more wet sanding. Just ran it until the whole thing felt smooth and I couldnt see any low spots. That worked fine, my vinyl wrap skills need to improve a bit but I don't mind spending a little extra on more vinyl and just redoing things as I go.

Oof. Don't do it Earl Sheib! My roll of vinyl was around $500, but the labor is all on me. And I'll probably need more due to being a noob with it. I got the tailgate right on the first try! The third attempt.

In SC related news, I reached out to smoothflow pulleys. Gonna get this thing bumped up a little.

At 5800' feet, I've been getting about 3.5lbs pressure. Saw one 3.7 reading. Took a trip to an area sitting more like 3200' elevation, was running 4.5 - 5lbs boost. Nice to get a little 100 mile road trip in, kick the system around. Truck feels great now. But I definitely want all the power available, didn't go to this trouble to do it halfway!

 

Pulled the plugs and bore scoped cyl 6. Covered in oil and carbon. No obvious signs of damage. I did see oil running down the walls. (Possible valve guide seals.)
Performed compression test high 180 low 160. With the lowest cyl was #6.
1,3,5 top to bottom

2,4,6 left to right


If my math is right it is 11% difference between high and low. If I use the second try it would be 9%.
That is right on the edge of rebuild.
I will need to get a second set of hand to do the leak down. Unless I take off the supper charger. Which at that time I could check the intake valves for seal leaks.
At this point out a new plug in #6 and see if she runs correct.

 

I managed to leak down cyl 6, only. 37% leak going past the rings and out the oil filler cap.

REBUILD TIME!!

Let's hope it just needs rings.

 

20 psi difference is what is considered the maximum allowable variance tolerance before some sort of rebuild is required indeed. Anything over that, it's going to cause some misfires but given that you got some misfires already you are definitely going to need a rebuild based on that alone, not even mentioning the oil issues.