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TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by 12TRDTacoma, Nov 8, 2017.

  1. Jul 22, 2025 at 10:21 AM
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    I had my Y pipe modified to match the Spec U's
     
    Operator8[QUOTED] likes this.
  2. Jul 22, 2025 at 10:28 AM
    Operator8

    Operator8 Well-Known Member

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    It's still a tight fit with my steering intermittently rubbing my exhaust wrap. But I got the headers used for a good deal.
     
  3. Jul 22, 2025 at 1:56 PM
    scootter82

    scootter82 Well-Known Member

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    In loudness lol. I already had so many mods done I don't remember if there was a noticable power gain. And I didn't have any gauges for the s/c setup either. But I still feel it's worth it to flow air more freely
     
    henryp, SUMOTNK, EricT and 1 other person like this.
  4. Jul 25, 2025 at 5:31 PM
    IvanhoeTaco

    IvanhoeTaco Well-Known Member

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    So I got the DTLT here, ready to install. With my stock manifolds I have my wideband bung right around the upstream 02, since these are LT, im thinking of putting the wideband in the collector, where the downstream would've been.

    Is this a good idea? Measuring all 3 cylinders instead of putting a bung randomly on 1 tube?
     
  5. Jul 25, 2025 at 7:03 PM
    scootter82

    scootter82 Well-Known Member

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    That's where I had it. I remember reading somewhere that was desired. But then most of the Tundra guys with LT's put it on one tube
     
    IvanhoeTaco[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Jul 26, 2025 at 5:28 AM
    mightytacoman

    mightytacoman Mighty-known Member

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    Why not at merge and get all 6? If you're not looking to run 2 wide bands- might better read em all
     
  7. Jul 26, 2025 at 9:34 AM
    IvanhoeTaco

    IvanhoeTaco Well-Known Member

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    Total Chaos 3.5 LT, King Coilovers, 35x11.5r17 on Falcon T2, ADV 4 inch fiberglass, 4.88 gears, FJ cruiser transfer case, 4 runner front diff, Cab mount relocate, archive hangers, shackles, king 2.5x14 rear shocks, icon rxt leaf springs, king hydro bumps
    Still have stock y pipe
     
    mightytacoman[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Jul 26, 2025 at 1:40 PM
    TRON

    TRON Well-Known Member

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    TRD Blower, 2.3 Pulley, NST OverDrive Pulley Kit, B&M Shifter, TR Lowering Kit, Spec Clutch, Xrunner Body Kit
    Gotta take the stock ypipe and cats out to really appreciate those DTLTs.
     
  9. Jul 26, 2025 at 5:56 PM
    IvanhoeTaco

    IvanhoeTaco Well-Known Member

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    One 1000$ purchase at a time
     
    boostedka and Operator8 like this.
  10. Jul 26, 2025 at 6:18 PM
    scootter82

    scootter82 Well-Known Member

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    It stank so bad when I did that!
     
  11. Jul 26, 2025 at 10:46 PM
    Operator8

    Operator8 Well-Known Member

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    Get some HiFlows.
     
  12. Jul 27, 2025 at 4:41 AM
    Billy182

    Billy182 Well-Known Member

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    Just gut the cats and put your wideband in the old post-rear cat bung :spy:
     
    IvanhoeTaco[QUOTED] and PhoS like this.
  13. Jul 27, 2025 at 1:06 PM
    IvanhoeTaco

    IvanhoeTaco Well-Known Member

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    Sound freaking great at idle, nice Japanese performance burble, free revved its a little soda can sounding, but under load/boost its not horrible. Can 100% feel a difference in mid range and upper rpms. Lost a psi of boost but just sounds and feels like engine is able to breathe.
     
  14. Jul 27, 2025 at 1:16 PM
    IvanhoeTaco

    IvanhoeTaco Well-Known Member

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  15. Jul 27, 2025 at 2:57 PM
    IvanhoeTaco

    IvanhoeTaco Well-Known Member

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    I would buy the recent market leading equal length Y pipe if I could try it first. I cant justify spending 1500 just for HOPEFULLY sounding better.

    Tbh there aren't even any good sound clips of that pipe yet.
     
  16. Aug 3, 2025 at 8:09 AM
    OKJC

    OKJC Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone been able to replace their alternator without removing the SC belt pulleys and everything?

    Specifically I'm trying to get the last bolt off (circled in red) and haven't had any luck. It feels like it might be backing out against one of the SC idlers, I think. Anyone have any tips or tricks?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2025
  17. Aug 3, 2025 at 6:30 PM
    zerotimeouts

    zerotimeouts Well-Known Member

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    I had all of that removed when I did the alternator. Did you already remove the A/C condenser? I let mine hang nearby while I removed the alternator but I also pulled the pulleys off. I thought the compressor was in the way of one of the bolts or shared one.

    The idlers will slide off you may not need to pull the studs but I think you're gonna have to remove some of that assembly to get in there.


     
  18. Aug 7, 2025 at 6:20 PM
    BlueT@com@4×4

    BlueT@com@4×4 Well-Known Member

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    Don't waste your time man... last week I just take my alternator to change the pulley and you have to remove sc belt pulleys and everything and it's a lot faster.
     
  19. Aug 7, 2025 at 6:29 PM
    stickyTaco

    stickyTaco Fuck Cancer

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    I was able to remove the alternator without removing the SC belt or pulleys. Took some creative use of wobble extensions and flex head wrenches.
     
  20. Aug 7, 2025 at 6:54 PM
    TegoTaco

    TegoTaco Well-Known Member

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    Quick question, when installing the URD QuickChange pulley, do I need to put the black piece in the oven in order to make the install easier?
     

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