TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Please do keep us posted on how it works out. My truck died the other day while going 70mph. I might also do this if it works for you

 

Yes but your running air fuel ratio is currently wonky because of that huge hole in your fuel tank bucket. You would be surprised how much even a small slit of unmetered air after the intake or lack of fuel (also causing lean conditions) can screw with your drivability.

 

This is true! Ill do some testing and see what happens after i get it fixed this weekend

 

What intake do you have?

 

Urd tcai

 

I had a break in my intake piping where it enters past the radiator support bulkhead and it not only made my idle particularly shaky, more so than it should had, but it was also messing with my fuel trims at idle bouncing between +-7% and it also messed with my overall running condition. I head a lot of knocking and pinging at acceleration before. All because of a small open slit which was past the intake!

 

When you say break do you mean like a crack in the piping, or a loose silicone connection? I recently checked all of mine for tight and they were good. My problems also were present with the stock airbox from day 1 of the supercharger install

 

Like a break in the piping due to chafing on metal from the rad support bulkhead.

 

On the topic of intakes I too have the urd. Gadget mentions it needs to only have the filter supplied with the kit. Anyone know why? Or how important it is? If it's to regulate the sensor I get it. But I want to add an elbow turning the filter down. Instead of currently blocking a sizable portion of the intercooler. Feedback welcomed.

 

It needs to have the filter supplied with the kit only? As opposed to what other way? I am not sure I totally understand the question.

If you want to add additional piping after the fact, that is modifying the current design and it may mess with the MAF.

 

Gotcha.. did the stripping that urd provides rub through, or what happened there?

 

I won’t get to it till winter time when she sleeps for a while. But I’ll post what I do.

 

It sounded like it was important to only use the filter supplied. Didnt know if it was critical for flow or something. I want to get a silicone 90* and turn the filter down. I realize the intake will be a little longer. Just curious if theres a reason not to.

 

See I bought my filter setup used, so I didn't realize it was supposed to have trim lock around the area you cut. It makes sense as to why it happened now though.

You could use any plain old conical style filter, as long as you don't get an oiled K&N. Those things... ugh... the bend may screw with the incoming air to the MAF, and may also screw with the amount of boost output you get. People with snorkels tend to get slightly less boost output despite the fresh air incoming through.

 

I asked Gadget once and he says using any other style filter may cause turbulence over the maf.

 

If you want to experiment then use a honeycomb prior to the maf to straighten airflow. You can find them at Treadstoneperformance.com or elsewhere if you look.
This will eliminate erratic airflow readings due to bends.

 

If you have ever owned a Mitsubishi of the 90's and early to perhaps mid 2000's you will observe that if you pull the MAF from the vehicle they run a huge honeycomb over it. That being said, their style mass airflow utilizes a different style than ours does and if you were to run a honeycomb in ours you would probably have to do some extensive modifying to make sure it does not get sucked in.

 

Extensive? A little dramatic dont you think? A slight taper of the intake and BAM magic! Extensive modification complied with.

 

You think it would be easy to put on? If the material is easy to work with, it is something I would like to implement in my own, because I feel like the MAF is more prone to throwing codes due to its location in relation to where the intake sits.

 

Good info guys. Thanks!