TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Good question, I haven't looked at it to see how replacements go. I can tell you I have about 30k miles on mine so far and it's great. Keep in mind that 1st gen Tacomas came with the double cardan shaft from the factory. Few people know this. Either way, getting ujoints replaced is cheap. Even cheaper is just keeping them greased!

 

Got a little extra money. Think meth is getting ordered soon

 

Every once in a while I go to the new 2nd gen threads just to see what's happening. Nothing, that's what's happening. This thread is the life of TW.

 

You ever been to the 3rd gen threads. It's scary in there lol

 

The longer the shaft.. the greater the run-out (vibes)

@snowsk8air2 look into having the DS re-tubed. Had to have mine done.. again.. a month or so ago. Soooooo much better. Back to smooth. Especially when paired with my IEDLS CB.

 

Yeah, I got a warning from the mods one time and decided I should stay out of there. It was just too easy to poke the tiger and sit back and watch them devour each other. They're like a fire ant mound. There might have been alcohol involved.

 

Haha I drop in there every once in a while just to gauge how much of a shit show it is. There are always threads that don't disappoint

 

Mines not bad right now. Got a little dent in it and a lot of missing paint. I have no vibes since going sua. But I'm sure another crawling trip or two and I'll bend it enough to need replacing or repair. Where did you have yours done?

 

mine was definitely sand blasted too.

I had a few gouges and dents in it.. so it needed it. I use Az driveshaft and differential down here in Phx. Mesa technically.

 

Onward through the fog.

 

If you can talk shafts, then can I inquire about lubrication? Anyone know if there is an externally accessible port that I can use to prime my oiling system on my engine swap project? Some folks will use a garden sprayer to generate pressure and distribute a couple quarts of oil into the engine. I'm trying to figure out if the port under the oil filter is on the supply side to the engine, or if I should pull the oil pressure sender next to the filter? Any direction would be appreciated.

 

@Torspd?

 

And this was one of the reasons I turned down the job in Fort Worth.

 

Is the adjustment of the bypass gonna be added to page 1?

 

Yes it will. Eventually. Lol.

 

That is where I have my oil pressure sensor. 1/2" NPT plug. You could do it there.

For me, after everything is assembly lubed, I just pull the fuel pump relay, and crank the engine until the oil light turns off. That equates to 20 psi.

^^^ That was the method prior to the oil pressure gauge.

 

Duuuuuuuude! That picture reminded me of the fun on the clovers .... Good times .

 

Thanks! I lubed up the valve train/cams with Amsoil assembly lube when I installed the UCON timing gears, but it doesn't seem to stick around like some of them. I'm ultimately concerned with the rod bearings being dry as the engine has set for 6 months. I will crank as suggested. Hoping to bring this thing back together in the next couple weeks, I hear its boost season again.

 

Clevite or Redline assembly lubes, for future reference.

 

I’m sure you can weld it yourself if you do it the simple way. I did a pair a few years back. I bolted the flange that bolts to the head to my work bench and made a jig to bolt the stock header exhaust flange in its stock location. Cut the cats off the oem header, unbolt oem header from bench (while leaving oem cat bolted to jig), slide new header into jig and bolt to table, weld, and install. Doesn’t get any more fool proof than that. Unless you have access to a loft and regularly perform that kind of exhaust work I would avoid doing it on the vehicle even if that means paying a professional