TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

On the subject of one piece driveshafts. I developed vibes when I first lifted my truck.

I first tried the poly Ford center bearing. That made things worse.

I then had an 1/8” wall one piece DS made by “The Axle Exchange” in Fairfield NJ.

My truck is lifted somewhere between 3”-4”. I’m running 35s and 4.88s. No vibes up to 95 MPH. No idea after that...

It worked so well, I had a second one piece made for a spare.

Your results may vary.

That’s for a DCSB. Trail limos should probably stick to a two piece.

Also, @loginfailed , why do you say you’d have to modify your crossmember to run a one piece? Mine worked fine with the factory crossmember.

I did end up making a new crossmember later, but that was due to the weak, stamped, factory one not being able to handle the traction bar mounted to it.

 

All this info is good! Since I have a lift but dont off road much would a one piece be better/less maintenance? I had a Dakota V8 and it had a massive aluminum long one piece. 18 years, 10 of me abusing it with no maintenance. Not even a u joint. Why dont yotas have aluminum?

 

@loginfailed

started one..

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/xpotrpr-minitruck-1986-toyota-pickup.574446/

 

If your worried about dry bottom end bearings couldn't you overfill with like 15 quarts of cheap oil so the crank and rod bearings are in an oil bath? Crank it a revolution by hand to get all the rods covered then drain.

 

DCSB has a 1 foot shorter wheelbase, and with that 12" of overall frame removed means the driveshaft can be that much shorter because the distance from the tranny to the rear end is not as long. Critical speed is not as critical on DCSB as it is on DCLB because of the overall shaft length. Vibes are also that much easier to manage as well.

 

I have further researched belt part numbers for those wanting to run Gates FleetRunner green belts for increased longevity and increased pulley traction and have a small compiled list of near lengths close to what is required to run certain size pulley's on our superchargers. Below is a list of what size will be most compatible based on the size pulley you are running. All will require modification to fit our 5 rib pulleys.

- For OE 3.0 pulleys (70.5"): K070705HD will require slicing off 2 ribs
- For 2.8-2.7 pulleys (70.2"): K080702HD will require slicing off 3 ribs OR K120702HD will require slicing 7 ribs (you get 2 belts for the price of one!)
- For 2.5-2.6 pulleys (69.56"): K060696HD will require slicing off 1 rib

 

I thought I read that the crossmember gets in the way under full compression. Not sure where I read that. If the clearance is fine, then obviously I won’t cut it.

 

Is a vice mandatory to assist in cutting? Or can one with skill do it freehand?

 

You can do it freehand, but I find a vice to allow for much more uniformity in cutting.

 

Got it. Thanks for the research. Do you notice a difference running this belt?

 

I personally noticed a fantastic difference.

 

Thanks. What's the next tensioner of choice available?

 

Thump and ARS make more expensive billet ones, which are beautiful things, however the budget options are Roosh and Steeda. I ordered a Steeda.

 

Thanks for the input! That may be possible.

Page 1 add????

 

Like you would not imagine. I personally picked up .8lbs of boost just in switching over to not only the belt being properly sized, but the increased traction of the greenback part of the belt as well has allowed further aid in belt traction.

However, myself and @Athlaos run a 69" variant of the FleetRunner belt due to us running smaller pulleys over everyone else.

x1,000,000!!!

Steeda, or Roush for cost effectiveness, Roush is not reinforced with a billet piece like the Steeda, but is a rehauled unit utilizing a much thicker cast aluminum arm over the original OE tensioner design, and utilizes an HD internal tensioner arm spring.

If you want beef all around, but feel like burning a hole in your pocket from how expensive it will cost you, Thump, or ARS make beautiful units which are still readily available for purchase, and offer 76mm double bearing pulley designs, for increased tensioner stability.

I got lucky and picked up a used Thump unit with the 76mm double bearing pulley for much cheaper than what it would cost brand new.

 

Steeda is in my Amazon basket. Wouldn't mind a roush. Cant see the logo anyway.

 

IMPORTANT UPDATE TO THE GROUP:

Due to the recent SURGE of valuable mod knowledge and information running through this thread, page 1 post has not only been cleaned up for easier identification of the section you would like to obtain your information from, with each section being explicitly highlighted, but all brand new mod items have been added/ updated. Everything from recent billet/ reinforced/ beefed up tensioners, belt size updates for FleetRunner green belts, and even boost bypass valve adjustment information has been added.

 

I need to check my bypass valve as well. I bet between that and the belt I'll see a great improvement.

 

Trust me when I say you will. The switch out to the green back Fleetrunner diesel serpentine belt will net you big gains alone. Do both? Bank. Add @Roostfactor pulley wrap mod for even greater pulley traction and if you really want to kill the game, rip mod your qwikchange pulley.

 

Already have the roostmaster's belt wrap!