TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Thank you sir. So, it’s just a normal throttle plate type deal.

So, the much discussed brass vacuum orifice is simply dampening the vacuum signal to the diaphragm that is actuating this valve. Seemingly for drivability reasons, or perhaps to reduce wear on the mechanism by dampening the vacuum signal out a bit.
All boost will be realized once the valve closes. I’m wondering if the inconsistency of boost pressures that Rob was experiencing was perhaps a result of inadequate spring tension in the diaphragm versus the kind of boost pressures he’s running. As in: the spring in there isn’t strong enough to slam the door on 10-12 psi of boost.

It would be interesting to see what happened if the orifice was re-installed and an additional spring was added to assist the internal spring in the diaphragm. Just like an old carburetor spring helping to pull it closed. Not too strong tho. Vacuum at idle should be able to pull it open as normal still.

 

Maybe.

I see your from phx. Maybe race on a “closed course” in January?

 

Man, I’ve got my hands full with a different vehicular money pit currently. I dunno if the taco will be competition ready by January.

 

haha when it is pm me

 

Excuse my ignorance But, I am going to have the Magnuson branded supercharger installed on my ‘08 and it comes with their software package from what I am reading I should not use their tuning but go with some aftermarket tuning from URD or others is that correct?

 

It's up to you.

I didn't have any issues with the BD tune, but had to contact BD and get assistance in loading the file. If I wasn't concerned about my warranty at the time, I'd go without software and apply that $$ to the UCON from URD.

https://www.urdusa.com/product/ucon-ems-advanced-engine-management-for-toyota-1gr-fe-4-0l-v6/

 

Yeah it's just a normal throttle style plate. By removing the brass jet you give it the ability to actuate open and closed like a normal throttle body butterfly.

There are tons of these blowers out there pushing over 10 psi for sure, but the way I see it, by removing this thing it eliminates the possibility of it being the issue for boost inconsistency vs. actual belt slippage. It appears that like with most mods results may vary, as no two engines and blowers at that are created equal, but the general consensus up to this point has been it helps more so than not.

If you have ever played with the bypass valve actuation spring, you will find it is actually plenty strong to move that butterly. 10 psi of boost is not going to affect it's operation whatsoever, but by adding a restrictor jet in there you could affect it from closing as quickly as it should to seal up the blower as it builds boost pressure.

A small positive side effect was that by removing it, it also did away with most of the "turbo lag" that we experience.

 

I finally swapped my stock fuel pump with the URD kit. I ordered it with the DW 255. Truck has 140k mi, supercharged for just under 1 year. Only other performance mods is the UCON with associated accessories.

Prior to the pump upgrade i was never able to hit above 6.5 lbs of boost, best was 6.47. Now I have been able to hit 7 lbs. I don't think it is a matter of the colder weather since I had not seen that level during the last winter. I still seem to be running rich, regularly see 10.9 AFR under boost. Will be having a tuning session soon. In general the truck feels stronger, better pull even at lower RPM's, butt dyno verified.

Last night I put some hose clamp on both ends of the bypass valve as discussed earlier. I did not remove the jet though, I want to get some data before attempting that change. No obvious change during the minimal testing performed.

After that, I have headers and y-pipe along with most of the parts so that I can build a custom cat-back with a bedside exit. I will document the cat-back build so that anyone with interest can replicate. I have not found too many examples of gen 2 tacos with a bedside exit.

 

If you are worried about performing the restrictor jet mod and would like to leave it in place, you can always install welding gun tips which have a larger orfice over the stock one. That way it is still giving you a metered vacuum, but it is not totally choked down like it is with our brass ones.

Bedside exits is something I have been interested in for a while, though for my sort of driving when offroading, it is not something that is a good idea to do.

 

My plan is to have the cutout in front of the passenger side rear tire. I have a kick out on my sliders which will aid in protection. Not sure why this would be an issue off-road? Someone else mentioned it in another thread as well. I'm guessing they were thinking it would be to the rear of the tire..

 

You haven't seen the way I drive offroad. It will bounce all over the place and contact the sheetmetal.

 

@rcfreak201 did just that. It is all how you support the exhaust.

 

You can go with ucon from URD for $$$$ or you can get the OEM TRD flash for $ which is supposedly way better than the Magnuson BD tune. However if going with the TRD, you cannot go to the ucon later without swapping out the ECU.

 

The ucon will work with the TRD flash, but many people have had persistent issues that were solved with a stock ecu.

 

Has anyone with the TRD flash + UCON run that setup with no issues?

 

I hope so cuz I’d like to get that UConn ......but not if I’m gonna have possible issues........on a side note, Happy TG to all you boosted bastards!!!

 

When they first released the UCON for the newer trucks I think they had some bugs to work out. Maybe even the stock flash had issues, I don't know. So if you have the TRD flash, you may be OK at this point. Scott told me that the TRD flash messes with the cam angles or something and sort of limits what the UCON can do, but maybe they have worked some of that out by now.

 

Soot

 

Yep. Let that sink in.