TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

cowl hood!

i get 11 consistently with no supercharger.. towing is down to 9-10. but this thread does make me want one..

 

I have actually gotten 19-20, with the supercharger, on the highway, if I was going exactly the speed limit.

 

I just did a quick calculation. I've put approximately 2.7 MILLION revolutions on my new idler since I installed it a few days ago. I figure that's a good shakedown.

 

I got around 13.6 pre S/C, and it’s slowly been creeping up since February. I’ve been sitting 14.3 for quite some time but I’m still hoping to squeeze out a little more mpg

Edit: data from my ultra gauge

 

I get 10-11 pulling my camper

 

If it is crank hp, something seems off with that ratio.

I did some 3rd gear WOT runs at lunch today and my best MAF on OVTune was 308 g/s. That's roughly 363bhp and 309whp on a 2.5 pulley and its about 45 deg OAT. I dyno'd 314whp on the 2.7 pulley in July with 90 deg temps. All other mods are the same. Boost was about 9.5 and AFRs were high 9s.

Interestingly, I switched back to the TRD tune and the same WOT runs saw a best MAF of 317 g/s. Boost was 9.5 and AFRs were a little leaner at low-mid 10s, so the TRD tune seems to be making more power than OVTune on the smaller pulley. OVTune made more power on the 2.7.

Either way, I think my exhaust combination of the DT shorties, 300cfm cats, and TRD 2.5 catback is restricting MAF for the 2.5 pulley. I know the cats are more restrictive than some others.

Also found out that the OVtune handheld has the datalogging function disabled. You can view real-time data but it will not log even though the option is in the menu.

 

Everything goes back to the TRD tune they say. LOL

 

Seems to hold true for my setup - at least until OVTune dials in his tune or provides a custom solution.

 

Everything went on today, I was, however, regretfully unable to run the new idler despite the AWESOME belt wrap it gave because the new tensioner arm would strike the fan clutch due to the new increase in tension it gave the belt.

The only solution is to either A. run a new smaller fan clutch setup if something like that even exists? B. switch to an E fan, C. remove some material off the very tip of the tensioner or D. remove a little bit of material off of every little fin on the fan clutch.

So I ran the setup as designed. The engine seems to wind up a tad bit faster now with the NST pulley. The stock crank pulley was starting to look like crap anyways so I'm glad I changed it. Nothing huge to write home about, but what I'm really stoked about is running this double bearing rigged tensioner assembly. Idle and boost seem to be so much more stable and consistent now!

 

Awesome, improved throttle response too? I noticed that each time I took steps to improve belt slip.

Sucks on the tensioner interference tho. I'm lucky there, I have the e-fan mod.

 

Some improved throttle response. I have noticed that anytime you improve belt slippage the throttle response picks up as well.

 

Nice. Have you thought about removing the non-ribbed idler just below the lower wrap idler? That's what I did when I put my upper wrap idler on. Mostly the belt just wouldn't fit without doing that. But it was kind of a redundant idler in my opinion, with the lower wrap pulley added. Or you could put a smaller idler in its place. It might give you just enough to make your tensioner not interfere with the fan. Having no idler there has been working fine for me, the belt functions just fine without it. Here's the picture again for reference.

 

Interesting. It is worth playing around with!

 

Birdy told me gadget is gonna do it. Shhhh

 

I would say Efan and that would give even better throttle response. The only thing I don’t like about the efan is it’s another thing to worry about vs a clutch fan is solid and good to go. But if done right could be great.

Are you not worried about harmonic dampening? Not sure if our trucks are internally balanced. Did the steel sleeve fit just right or did you have to sand it down? @12TRDTacoma

 

The issue for me is just that, reduced reliability, and it is way too easy to overheat an engine once the fan motor fails. I'd rather stick to fan clutch, as much as I hate it, it does work really well. Maybe I can start investigating a smaller design fan clutch, because I'm sure they are made.

Alternatively I could always try to run the setup the way @Athlaos has it, which actually would and obviously does work!

I am not worried about the dampening. If there were issues with the NST pulley after so many members running them for years and years already, we would had seen an engine internally melt down or something catastrophically loosen by now. The steel sleeve was already in place on the pulley, as NST has since rectified that issue with their previous pulleys and it went right in with little effort. It fits like a glove.

 

Then I’m going to need a 6L80.

 

The radiator and shroud I got are great, but the fan supplied was not. I bought a low profile Spal fan and it works great.

 

There within lies my point. Lol.

Way too many variables for today's cheap made in China electronics to go wrong then cause catastrophic engine damage. (Not the SPAL, I meant the fan itself)

 

Yeah, it’s a good point that an electric fan could be knocked out easier than a clutch fan.