TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

ok, after I get the right parts should I reinstall the tune. I'm probably going to replace the ecu and get rid of dam bully dog.

 

What was the purpose of not driving truck with the bully dog tune installed until the supercharger on.Just curious.

 

Technically 54.5mm

 

OvTune said he could get rid of it if you send the ECU to him. Not sure if his self tuning software would do it as well. Also who knows if any of it has or will come to be true

 

There should be no issues. The only reason I can think of, and what they really mean, is to not run the BD Tune without the correct 425cc injectors, as otherwise it won’t proportion the fuel correctly. The supercharger being installed or not shouldn’t matter.

 

@Tennessee98 you should be able to run a standard idler, seeing as the Steeda is a OE replacement. If you choose to try to run the idler pulley I am which is a double bearing and double thickness variant you should have enough space to clear back there. Some cutting to the billet internal space will likely be required but either way, all this stuff needs mods to make it work with our stuff. As previously mentioned don't cut the spring too short, but you should be fine trimming it down some to fit.

I am so proud of you guys. Look at all this knowledge. It just brings a tear to my eye.

 

ok that's what I thought it had something to do with the injectors. Thank you for everyone's advice. I will order the smaller pulley and swap it onto the new tensioner arm. This thing is so much more beefier than the stock one.

 

I tell everyone I know that if I needed some advice or a question answered regarding toyota trucks, that this website has a lot of knowledgeable people to help someone out. Thanks again for the help!

 

I must have missed something. You have to cut the spring on the steeda unit?? How short is too short?

 

I didn't know that either but since you need to cut it some just enough to clear over the main mounting bracket. No biggie.

 

Ok. Got me scared there.

 

Good old modding. Lol. Nothing I ever a straight plug and play deal apparently, not with our trucks.

 

Probably could hammer the loop over on itself too.

 

If it fits by doing that then it would likely be a better idea then cutting it. As long as the bend doesn’t fatigue off

 

Roger that. Should be ok, it is spring steel?

 

Which is tempered and more prone to snap, I think. Good to know. Mines going on this afternoon if things go well.

 

Just catching up this morning. I think @Roostfactor and others already answered some of this but...

Flex pipe for the exhaust to be able to move and flex some when the engine moves under load. Also the exhaust, being suspended from rubber hangers has also some movement when going over bumps.

It’s better for the exhaust to be a somewhat flexible vs being on solid piece. Keeps things from bending and breaking.

The stock exhaust doesn’t have this, but instead uses a donut style gasket that is ball shaped on one side, so it is able to pivot somewhat like a suspension ball joint does on a control arm.

Yes. The lower intake to the block is a metal gasket. The upper manifold gasket is rubber. The injector seals are rubber.

All of them can be re-used in a pinch (pun intended), but I wouldn’t reccomend it, unless they are fairly new. Since you’re taking all that stuff off and would have to do all the work over again if it were to leak. Also, a manifold gasket set cost only around $22.

I didn’t replace the injector seals because they were replaced very recently when I upgraded to the 61lb injectors. I didn’t replace the throttle body o-ring either because it was fairly new as well.

I didn’t think to take note of that. If we had a spare injector seal to measure thickness, we could figure it out without disassembling.

When tightening the fuel rail down, the o-ring is compressed approximately 1mm-2mm.

The thickness of the injector boss on the manifold is 3mm thick.

The TRD injector measures 8.8mm from where the injector seal rests to the tip.

The Siemens Deka injector tip is about 1mm longer from where the seal rests to the tip. So it reaches 1mm further into the hole.

Not having a seal to measure and only looking at the injectors, I would estimate the seal is about ~7mm thick. Taking into account some compression of the seal when the fuel rail is tightened (1mm-2mm), my estimation is that the tip of the TRD injector sits nearly flush with the bottom of the hole, and the Siemens sits 1mm further in.

At the moment, yes. Why? Were you going to recommend I install a set of these?

 

This guy looks awfully familiar! Now I’m jonesing to do my 7th injector and start grinding metal! I love it!

 

You have some really nice winter upgrades going on to keep you busy. Going to look awesome!

 

Haha Roscoe! Yes good times. I love it I love it!