TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Another definitive answer from OVT (emphasis added)...
"Rafael and I are preparing all files and will send them to people with pending email tickets when we are ready."

I've sent multiple emails, but I have no idea whether they constitute having a "pending email ticket." Like I said...

 

i’ve found when I send him an email, if I don’t get a response in 2 business days I bump the same email thread and then he gets back to me. I try not to be too annoying but it is what it is.

 

I tried that (original request sent on 8 Aug, follow-up on 28 Aug, follow-up on 27 Oct), and still have received no response. Maybe he doesn't like me dredging-up so many unfulfilled forum promises...?

 

Thanks for taking one for the team lol

 

I've emailed him a couple times about the v2 tune myself with no response. However he did respond right away and send me a replacement cable for the handheld when I emailed him about that

 

Just fyi the dynamic tensioner that I broke for 2007 tacoma 4.0 V6 can be purchased through Magnuson for $55. The one toyota sales is $230. I'm waiting on the new pulley to swap onto the steeda and will install that instead. Just because it's a lot beefier of arm and I dont want to change again. Thanks again to everyone who gave me some advice over the weekend.

 

Thanks for the follow up!

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but TVS blowers are the same mode of operation as a roots. It just has a much higher twist rate (60 for our MP90s, 160-170 for the TVS). This gives quieter operation and more efficient in terms of degrees rise per psi of boost. It is the successor to the Gen V blowers we have.

 

Roots just takes air and spins it to go into the combustion chamber faster, twin screw literally sucks in and compresses the air as it gets sucked in by the combustion chamber hence the higher temperatures out of it, more friction exists in those.

Anyways, that's what I meant as far as theory of operation.

 

Norton my man!

 

This is correct

This is mostly incorrect

If a roots just spun air then there would be no compression (boost) and very little temperature rise.

All generations of Roots including tvs literally suck air in. In fact all forms of internal combustion engines AND power adders to include turbos, centrifugal compressors, axial flow compressors, twin screw etc all will create a low pressure at the inlet if there is a restriction there. You even confirmed this on your vehicle when you put your stock intake on!

The difference is when and how the compression of air (boost) occurs.
A roots sucks air in then the air travels in between lobes around the outsides of the case and discharged out the bottom. You are correct in the fact that compression occurs after the rotors due to the restriction of all the components between the blower and tailpipe.

Twin screw compressors suck air in and compress the air as it travels through the rotors. Air passes through the rotors in the middle of the blower instead of around the outside of the case.

Roots blower and twin screw blower rotors spin in opposite directions.

 

Ok, hammered the toy this morning at 32 degF, saw a sustained 10 psi, threw a P0103. Cleared it with my ultragauge, but airflow probably was high. What is the consensus on the correct action here?

 

More pedal massaging metal.

 

Well, hell. Lol. Good to know!

What intake do you have?

 

AFE with the @Coupe cover. That doesn't affect the air flow, but it looks good.

 

That's weird. Those usually don't throw MAF codes. How many miles on the actual sensor itself? Could just be legitimately starting to go.

 

~78k. I'm sitting at work with the truck in the parking garage. I'll check all the connections before I leave this evening. Probably wont' get another chance in go-home traffic to see what it will do. I just hit a clear spot in the toll lane this a.m. and saw opportunity...and we all know that toll lanes are a closed course.

 

My original went out around that mileage so it is entirely possible that yours is just simply defective at this point, not saying it is but if you clear it and it comes back then you will know that it is indeed defective.

In another light it is entirely possible that the sensor just glitched which is what I used to experience a lot with my URD.

 

McGeorge Toyota has them for $129. I may just buy one because it will ultimately go.

 

Probably the coupe cover. Too much power for the MAF