TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I was going to. But got one welded for 60$.

 

did you go with 2 O2 sensors? where did you have them place the mounts? I've heard around here ~3" upstream driver's side catalytic converter. I've got 2 sensors on order and trying to figure out placement.

edit: just read you had one placed. still curious about location. thanks

 

Had, past tense. I have two now. Very close to the o2 sensors.

 

wow, that's cool.

 

They are built to order if you ask nice. He's been known to check in here on occasion.

 

Good info on the spring rate. I still need to install mine and test the clearance with the fan clutch. I think it will be close.

 

At least the 30k lines up with the spark plug change, so I’ll add the fuel filter change to that also.

I used the no weld bung from summit for my AFR sensor and it has done great; zero issues. Just be meticulous when you drill and wrap the malleable piece between the pipe and clamp. It took me about a 20-30 min job, taking extra care to not mess anything up. I’d do it again.

 

Where did you drill the holes?

 

Pics and product link?

 

Ahh.. that may take some work to get actual photos and such, as I never posted any photos of mine around the time I was doing it of the actual mod as a finished product in place, only because I was busy cursing about how long it was taking to cut the sleeve to the necessary size it needed to be. Besides, I used a double bearing idler pulley so mine would not necessarily be applicable. If anyone has any donor photos @Roostfactor or @Murphinator of progress to mod the tensioner bearing sleeve please post them up so I can promptly add more info to page 1. The tensioner section as a whole requires an update anyways with the recent spring tension findings of the Roush P51 tensioner and new orders of preference for recommended to buy tensioners.

It was just info I got from the original release at SEMA. Whether or not the power capability has been upped I don't know. This was a quote I pulled from a thread I read in posted in 2012.

You will have less than 1/2" clearance from the tensioner arm to the fan clutch if you are using the correctly sized belt needed to run your size pulley. Mine is close but will never get any higher than that set tension due to the fact that a belt can never get tighter than it's brand new predetermined length, it can stretch, become looser and cause the tensioner arm to move backward to compensate for the now slightly longer and stretched out belt, but never higher forward unless you perform pulley wrap mods of any kind.

I run the Roost pulley wrap mod with the correctly sized belt application and my new tensioner has never been an issue. Yours will not be either unless you run a belt that is either 1/2" to 1" smaller than it should be. If you do, you will in which case, find it IMPOSSIBLE to install the belt onto the new tensioner as the arm's additional thickness will not allow you to raise your rachet or breaker bar past the physical fan clutch which will be blocking the arm from moving any higher than what it is already capable of going up to.

The workaround to this is removing the fan assembly temporarily out of the way which will now allow you additional clearance needed to install the belt onto the drive system. Of course you will find that in doing this, upon re-install of the fan clutch you will not be able to spin the fan clutch in any way, as the clutch now will be physically striking the arm when it attempts to turn. I found myself in this exact situation when attempting to run a shorter belt and had everything installed and ready to go after the first few test fits of my tensioner. Luckily I had the sense to attempt to rotate the clutch to ensure there was no physical contact (which of course there was). I put a lot of effort into making this setup work and I want to make sure you guys' installs go smoothly learning from everything I did along the way.

Moral of the story, properly sized belts with a brand new thicker tensioner setup is CRITICAL. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS check any rotating parts by hand to ensure there will be no striking or stoppage of items prior to starting the truck or else you may regret it. (This section of this brief instructional is not applicable to you e-fan dudes, as interference is a non issue. However, I still always recommend checking and rotating things by hand prior to starting the truck)

I hope this helps.

 

thats a typo. that fj still had the roots.

also while i get its not cost efficent for anyone who already has a magnuson to upgrade. for the price difference its a no brainer for someone looking to buy one to get the tvs

 

Exactly. Easy to remember and delightfully easier to do than the spark plugs

 

@12TRDTacoma, wasn't sure if you saw this... While I hate to make more work for you, it would be good to add Smoothflow to the first post (and/or the Qwikchange thread), as an alternate source for hubs and (logo-free) pulleys. Nate was very easy to work with and responsive, once I reached him via email, and he included a note in my package asking that we spread the word about him.

 

I second this motion! I can also report back that i have had very good experiences with Nate. Very helpful, and got my pulleys sent out quick. Would use him again for sure

 

Good morning my boosted brethren!

 

Warm Seattle morning, yet I almost hit 10 myself.

 

What size pulley you running? 2.6?

 

2.5

 

Nice! I have a 2.6 & 2.7 waiting for once i get my issues sorted out. Gonna have to do some belt traction mods before those go on though too

 

Something I thought of guys. Has anyone removed the pulley hub? Was curious if it gets damaged removing in the event of s/c internal work.