TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Sounds curious. We'll see how that fares out.

If that was a thing you figure it would be a very popular mod in the TW community don't you think?

I would love nothing more than to have a dipstick/ fill tube.

 

Yeah I meant like he lost 5th gear because he did something wrong

 

@Lucario Runner tore is apart and upgraded the clutch packs. At a minimum. He could give you the indepth details. Works like a champ, smooth, and rated for 6-700 whp.

 

Damn nice

 

Was actually a pretty big discussion. I even spoke with Toyota for the prices of the parts off of the specific year models. It was around $300-350 for the tube and pan.

 

The pan comes off a land cruiser, a fortuner, or a hilux surf from across the pond. Aisin 750 series obviously.

 

With the 2.55 my injectors are pretty much maxed out at high rpm/wot. Bigger injectors inbound, though. 2.3 pulley should be doable after that.

Installed RatioTek shift kit and missed a step. Auto transmission is not in my wheel house. Decided to go for the IPT complete transmission route.

When it shifts to 5th it just free revs. Pretty sure I know what I did wrong, but I'm not messing with it anymore until its out of the truck. Then it will either be a spare or I'll sell it.

 

2.3s for everyone!

 

Ill give ya tree fiddy. If it free revs and no forward movement than either not enough fluid in pan or more likely a lube line was blocked.

 

Somebody has some hands on experience with it.

 

If it does not move forward but starts to creep forward when revving, there is definitely not enough fluid in the system.

 

Runs perfect 1st to 4th. Just no 5th.

 

If you have access to a tech stream you can hook it up and actually command gear changes and see each lines psi. That'll help you figure out what is the potential problem but imo you have a lube line block. Although that's kinda my educated guess without looking at it.

 

It sounds like this is the issue for sure.

 

I do have a Mongoose and access to Techstream. But the UCON is cock blocking. Needs to be removed to make any decent OBD2 diagnostics possible. I haven’t had enough free time to mess with it lately. My commute is 8 miles so I can live with 4th gear until either I get more play time or IPT gets the other trans to me.

 

Ah. I see. Understandable. Lucky for me the x1 doesnt care about my modis. Just baby it and keep us posted.

 

There may be some other issue as well, but I know for a fact that these are in the wrong positions.

The first one is on the lower step (resulting in the piston being the farthest outward). The second one is on the lowest step (also resulting in the piston being the farthest outward)

Pics below are of a brand new valve body from the dealer:


The RatioTek instructions say the middle notch on the 3-step and the other one on the position that results in the piston being the furthest inward.

I was at work when I was doing it and several people were over pestering me about other shit and I wasn’t giving it my full attention.

 

The UCON makes the data through OBD2 connection act really crazy. I have no clue what the hell the UCON is doing. It keeps the stock ECU happy though, so I guess there’s that.

 

Yeah the position of that piston is paramount. The utmost care and attention is needed when you are performing delicate mods like this one. I hate it when people pester me and I am doing something tedious like this.

 

One nice thing about my 1fz-powered Land Cruiser is the dip-sticks. Who thought taking that off was a good idea?