TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

As I investigate deeper into this, it is really starting to look bleak, and I actually think I may be driving with a defective fuel tank unit. The only thing stopping the canister from getting flooded with fuel is an integrated check valve which sits right on top of the fuel tank. Whether or not this is a valve I am unsure and the only way to find out is to pull the tank, there is literally nothing stopping fuel from getting in there though so I don't see why it would not be a valve. Take a look and make your own determinations. They refer to the hose which mounts from the tank to the canister as the fuel tank vent hose.

 

Hey @Skootter14 how much did you pay for your charcoal canister assembly?

 

Both parts together cost just over 350$ from genuinetoyotaparts.com.

That’s for the Charcoal Canister Assembly and the No. 2 Charcoal canister filter.

The dealers wants 640$ +/-.

Me personally, if I ever have to do this all over again, I’m going to start with the Canister piece first, and save around 60$ bc the No 2 filter didn’t look messed up. I could def tell (based off rust and old fuel) that the electrical components (one hot and one ground wire) were bad. I cut into everything to see how that canister physically worked and how it triggered CELs via sensors/electrical connections. There are no components in the filter...besides a filter...in the No 2 filter

Haha, that could be kind of confusing.

 

Meant to copy this



In my case, the “leak detection pump” is all I needed. If I could purchase this alone, I would (again, that is specific to my particular case)

 

My issue will most likely be the actual check valves within the canister itself, as I really don't forsee the fuel tank having any sort of check valve built into it's "outlet" which I previously was thinking was there.

I'm going to have to try the canister first and go from there. I have no intention of replacing the secondary filter. It's pretty obvious what is going on. Lol.

I officially hate Toyota now. Them and their crap evap systems.

 

Sooooo anyone running a Goodyear Gatorback belt? I just looked at mine, it's 5 ribs, but it's like serrated along the entire belt. Looks like tire tread, not just 5 solid ribs lol. Did I get the wrong belt?

 

yes, I've been running them for 2 years with no issue. 2.8 pulley standard size belt.

 

I have a gatorback. It runs just fine....

 

I’ve been running them for years. They are awesome. Note that they are now produced under the Continental Elite branding. Really like them. I got 80K out of the supercharger belt in stock size with the 2-7/8. No additional modifications.

Now I have a 1/2” shorter version with a 2.5” pulley and the roost factor idler.

 

Also so I just did some more maths and I am pretty sure to calculate HP it is acceped we use Maf g/s x 1.18 (correct me if I am wrong).

So my original dyno being 343 hp, divided by 1.18 puts a max maf g/s at 290.67 g/s.

3% for 1000 ft is 8.7 g/s, and since I am 300 ft short of 1000 over dyno runs, I am just going to estimate around 6 g/s. So really I would say I am only missing around 4 g/s which I think is not bad at all!

Now it could be worse than that during day time driving. Dyno runs were done in a hot humid around 80-85 F room. Run I did last night was around 48-52 degrees outside.

 

I thought your dyno was a rear wheel HP number? So you need to divide the reading by the efficiency of the drive train.

 

Dyno numbers were rwhp. I thought that calculation was for getting rear whp, but maybe it was for crankcase. In which case, I dunno anymore lol.

 

Yeah I just wanted to make that serrated belt look is normal and I didn't get the wrong one. Gatorback were the ones originally quoted around here as being one of the best replacements for SC belts so I ordered one off eBay when I first got the blower as a spare. It's been rolling around under my seat the whole time, I never really looked at it.

I also see now I need to cut off some custom bumper/skid work on the front of the truck because it severely dampers my ability to access anything under the truck, and it was coming off anyways to weld in a different design that gives me way more clearance/approach angle. Sidetrack anyhoo.

 

Yeah, I think the serrated design was for quietness. I think of it as the inverse of the rip mod!

 

I got the frame horns and mount plate from Anthony at Dezert Tou Fab. Built my own bumper to use his horns but incorporate a winch which won’t fit on his bumper. Removing the front cross member of the frame (the part that says lower, that also holds the bracket for the radiator lines) adds a good amount of clearance for approach angle. I ended up making an additional crissmember from 3”x3” square tube, made mounts, which also gave me a platform to mount the winch bracket.

One of my favorite projects. Wasn’t sure if you were looking into something similar

 

That assembly looks like a float check valve incorporated into the lid/vent hose connection based purely on the way the lid is shaped. If it is stuck, gummed up, or flooded that could easily allow fuel past on a full tank... My 2 cents.

 

Correct.

 

Yep, for the engine serpentine. I went through page 1 a couple times and just must not be seeing the recommendation for that belt.... Sorry, feel a little dense on this one.

Check on the razor knife to cut the new S/C belt.

 

This is what you are looking for I believe