TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Nice experiment!

This style MAF sensor works on air velocity across an opening to cause pressure drop measured by a diaphragm in the sensor to return a voltage signal to the ECU. The reading is not from air forced into the sensor, it is effectively a reading from air rushing past the sensor causing low pressure within the sensor. You then combine air velocity calculated by the pressure drop combined with the air temperature from the MAF air temp sensor to come up with a mass air flow value going into the engine. I may be incorrect, but it would seem the purpose of the guide over the pilot tube is more to ensure specific 90 degree flow, or a turbulent flow over the pilot tube than it is to size the guide tube in relation to the intake cross section. Aircraft use the exact same method for calculating air speed, and they do not use any guide over the pilot tube, it is just placed 90 degrees into the air stream which can use pressure drop, air temp and altitude to determine speed. While I have experience in automotive powertrain design, I do not claim to be an expert in electrical sensor design, not my field of study. But it would seem to me that enlarging an inert guide hole is going to have negligible effect on air velocity across the pilot tube to cause any significant change in the pressure drop readings to feed the ECU a different reading, as supported by the post above.

Edit: removed random unintended garble pre-quote.

 

If there is anything I have found in all my time working on Toyota's it's that they tend to use unorthodox tech and theory of operation regarding sensor functionality and how it affects PCM input/output. While what you and Jake are saying makes total sense, the findings I have had thus far on overall drivability have indicated a definite improvement over previous setups. One other item to be aware of on these which is typically not an outlined PID (at least ththe last time I looked on a flagship style scanner) is MAF Hertz (hz) output.

Some recent examples I have are my recent P2196 and P2198 which are stuck biased rich O2 sensor readings which were actually being caused by the evap system.

Another being a recent 2005 Tacoma that I diagnosed which has a P0158 Bank 2 sensor 1 O2 sensor circuit high voltage reading which was actually being caused by a blown head gasket on bank 2.

Just examples, but where I'm going with that is that these PCM's have some seriously weird methods of logic and operation which tend to give symptom based codes rather than the actual area of issue codes. I've been wrenching and diagnosing for a long long time but even I definitely don't claim to be any sort of expert. I've been wrong before and I'll definitely be wrong again. Lol.

I'll definitely be tracking what I've done in the coming days with close interest.

 

That’s a little concerning as when I tow (really that’s the most common time) I get a p0156 and/or p0158 codes

 

You have a 2011 not a 05/06. Those years were the trouble years for head gasket failures.

 

Worked on the truck for 10 min today.

 

Aaaaaaaaaaand I’m now reassured haha

Awesome

 

You need to check your voltages when towing. They like the code I was tracking down was merely a symptom code. When is the last time you did spark plugs? Check for intake leaks?

 

Plugs were done with the SC install, back in March of this year

 

Excuse me. I mean you need to check not only your voltages but your MA output readings from the sensors when driving. Make sure you don't have a vacuum leaks. Take it to a shop and have them smoke test it just to make sure. If not, you may have a sensor issue or something deeper. How many miles on it?

 

52 miles since the codes have been cleared and the MAF was modded.

Confirmed LTFT numbers have dropped at least 10% from previous readings at idle. Prior numbers were mid to higher 20's at idle at all times, current numbers are 14-15% on both banks at all times with the FPR mod configuration. STFT's are more stable now and vary between 0-1.6%+- at all times idle only.

Idle condition in park or without brake applied seems incredibly smooth now. Like glass smooth. In D with brake pedal applied idle is shaky because of my polyurethane engine mounts in combination with an RPM of 540-560.

Driving condition has not changed from my prior reporting as it seems overall better now.

I did this mod with zero expectation of improvement, but several areas improved. I know it is not Placebo as there are clear improvements across the board and the PID's I am monitoring show clear indication of that.

 

FML.

So going in today for the second try at getting the 2.8 pulley installed. I tried doing it when I installed the S/C, but the gear puller just wouldn't break it free and pull the 3.0 pulley. I had the cap screw in place that came with the URD kit and the puller totally mangled the inside of the bolt while it also torqued it in.

Soaking it now (again) with break free, so far vice grip do little but strip metal off of the outside.

Thinking about asking for the UCON to be reflashed for the 3.0 pulley until I get this BS figured out .

 

I feels that pain mang

 

Pull that Allen head bolt out, insert a flat head style bolt into it and get yourself a quality 3 jaw puller that has a flat style head as well. I hope you are installing a qwikchange so you will never have to deal with that nightmare of bulls*it again.

 

So heads up, apparently speed bleeders can clog up or something. I just ordered new rear ones. I think the check valve inside both of mine are seized up. I literally spent an hour with both of them slowly adjusting the bolt from fully tight to 1 full turn open, pumping the brakes after each little incremental turn and got zero fluid out of them, but when I pulled them out with the wife holding the brake i got fluid coming out of the hole. Bled as best I could by just leaving them partially threaded and letting fluid come out of the threads and then tightening, but zero fluid out of the hole. Had mine on for probably a year and a half to two years, I guess they salted up inside or just road grime caused the check valve to seize in place. Just something to think about if you're messing with your brakes and have speed bleeders.

 

Thanks. Step 1, get the allen head out.... Yeah, we will see how this goes.

I start travel next week until mid Feb, so things may go on hold for a bit, plenty of time to order a quick change set. I was going to put in the URD super grip.

Edit: On the bright side this might become my excuse to buy a welder

 

The UCon will adapt to whichever pulley you have on there, just reset the battery for 3 minutes and it will relearn everything

 

Buy the quick change. The 3.0 pulley is nothing to come off compared to the urd supergrip

 

Been there. I think it was @XPOTRPR 's truck that fought us tooth and nail. We finally had to get medieval on it.
As for that bolt; Clamp an old belt around the pulley with a pair of vice grips and get a helper to hold it. Then another big pair of vice grips on that bolt and back it out. If that doesn't work, You might end up needing to tack weld a nut to it. You've been itching to buy a welder for a while now anyway. Multimatic 215/220. It's Xmas. You deserve it.

 

Yup! The URD red pulley is definitely the hardest cause it’s so soft

 

yeah... that was... fun. lol

we ended up having to cut the bitch off!