TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

RB26

 

In 4 Da RB

 

I knew someone would ask for info I don't yet have... Haven't gotten around to installing gauges yet.

Based on what I see and smell, not to mention my altitude (that sucks away ~3lbs of boost), I'm confident it was (and still is) running rich.

 

time for the smaller pulley?

 

What is everyones thoughts on using a small amount of rtv to seal up a small leak on my intercooler lid until the new o-ring comes in?

 

Will do the job

 

No issue. Did you find something?

 

Yessir small leak on the front side. Heres the quote from your ypipe thread

 

Bypass on mine closes tight from the factory.

Edit: I was pleased to see the internals including the intercooler looked clean of oil. Catch can appears to be doing it’s job. Gasket did appear hard and perhaps a point of a small amount of bypass.

 

Plugs looked a little rich to me. New pulley should fix that.

 

Need to burn off all of that excess, simulataneously roasting more rubber!

 

But seriously..... when are you camming and turbo'ing the 1FZ?!?!?!? Shit. S/C thread. Oh well.

 

I think that happens this year. Discussions are getting serious. This is not cheap. Besides, I have a few leaks. That’s how I introduced the plan to the wife. It leaks, might as well rebuild...

Cams are not actually recommended if you plan to wheel which I do. Stock power band with boost seems the best compromise.

I’ve been DD-ing it in traffic to get a feel for any other issues that need to be addressed on the suspension. Needs a few things. 173k miles wears things out. Addressing those near term.

These guys make a harness to connect a Haltech to the harness: https://www.boomslang.com/ Haltech for engine, stock Ecu for trans.

Expert 1fz engine rebuilder is outside of Denver. Used to be the mechanic for Slee Offroad when Christo started out. He’s getting old, thinking about winding it all down.

It’s a project.

 

Okay guys, new to this supercharged thread and haven't been able to read through everything (600 pages!!) but I searched and couldn't find anything.

My truck has had the CEL on since I bought it about a year ago. I checked the codes and it was for the Bank 1 Sensor 1 (O2 sensor). I attempted to reset it, but it immediately came back on. I then replaced the sensor and cleared the codes. The CEL will now stay off (when reset) until I hit highway speeds.

Any ideas? This is the passenger side sensor right after the exhaust manifold.

Now, my truck has AFe cold air intake, mid-pipe, and 3" exhaust installed by the previous owner. He said the light came on after these were installed. He was very honest with me about everything else on the truck so I have no reason not to believe him about this.

 

What code number?

 

I'm at work and don't remember off the top of my head. I will confirm tonight!

 

Could you help us out with an actual code #? Sounds like bad cats, super common. I used a URD Sim for years to get by....

P0420 or P0430

 

I don't remember off the top of my head. I'll reply tonight once I get home from work!

For some reason I didn't even think of the cats going bad but you're probably right! It's a 2010 with 108k miles so I could see it happening.

 

On these engines, the threshold for the delta between the two 02 sensors (upstream/downstream) is very tight. Any variance and the P0420 or P0430 code can be thrown. It will continue to come back like clock work. I wouldn't blindly just throw an 02 sensor or sims at it. Make sure you visually inspect the cats to see if there are issues there. If you think they still have life, a Sim will buy you some time. DO NOT jump the gun and randomly purchase the AFE cat/header combination or any other aftermarket cat. The AFE will fail within 20k miles and depending upon your local smog laws, aftermarket cats may not meet their requirements. If you are required to keep the cats, then factory cats are the only way to fly. If you can legaly replace the front cats with URD headers, then I would definitely recommend that approach. It will be many times cheaper than OEM Cats and give you a nice performance bump.

 

Thanks for the advice!
I believe a rear O2 sim was already installed when I bought the truck. I put the new O2 sensor on as it looked grimey and was definitely the original. Like I said it now won't come on (when it's reset) until higher speeds. So I believe it was bad, and now it's actually reading a code.

Luckily there's no smog/emissions testing here so I don't have to worry about that. But I also don't want my truck to be too loud, as I'm afraid might happen if I install headers or something of the like that deletes the cats.
Thoughts?