TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I thought of that when I was looking into a larger intake pipe. However I was concerned how close the meth vapors would be to a sensitive sensor like these maf.

 

Need some input fellas. Last weekend drove over a mountain pass to central wa. 4 hour nonstop. Temps always at 185. I'm at 200 feet elevation in the city here, on the other side I was around 800. Outside temps right at freezing. Sunny, dry air, on that side. good times. Gentle driving at 65mph. Then I tried passing on a two lane highway. Truck started drastic power loss. Afr's fell to 8.5. Shitty. Happened at half throttle, no wot use. Backed off, hit fourth, then slowly went to normal afr readings. Upon arrival checked and cleared codes. Only cat delete codes. Battery disconnect then fine, for a while. Happened again on return trip. Once I got near the mountain pass all was fine. Accelerating uphill passing everyone. I have the j-bungs in still with no sims. Quality gas, never ran low. seemed like issue happend pre meth injection point. What the f<>k happened? Could I have been running lean and the truck retarded timing to that? Never had that happen. Not fun. Input welcomed.

 

I may just pull my ovtune to see if the trd tune is better. Btw. Figured I got 16-17 mpg. Not bat for a lift and 285's

 

Only recent mod. Didnt know why it could cause that but its silicone turbo couplers making a ram/cold air supply.

 

Okay, so update:

I installed the Hewitt air pump bypass mod. The install was ANNOYING putting in those block off plates especially in the rearward tube... but perserverence prevailed and I got it all in and installed.

I am not necessarily thrilled with the way the starter relay wire is installed in, and right now it is a semi rough install as the purple starter detection wire is bare but once I get a chance I will be installing a loom on that to give it a MUCH cleaner install and incognito look for emissions reasons, as well as installing some sort of tang on the starter relay pin instead of tying the wire around it (pretty ghetto if you ask me).

In the meantime I cleared my light, never heard the air pump activate at start and everything seemed to be good to go.

I have not driven it yet, but my initial impression of nonfunctional of the air pump is a much welcomed one. I wonder if installing the exhaust block off plates will help in any sort of way. We'll see. More on this tomorrow and over the course of the next week.

 

Did the kit have good instructions? Good hardware if any needed?

 

Not cool at all. You got the right idea though pull the OVTune. When all else fails, TRD Tune is the answer. It's like I said many pages ago all roads lead back to the TRD Tune.

 

No hardware was needed other than what was there electrically, and the block off plates. The kit had good instructions for someone who has no idea what they are doing. I just looked to see where the ECT was and then ditched the instructions. Lol.

 

Correct process would be pull tune, then disconnect battery, reconnect, then start right?

 

So this kit is for 12-14 Tacomas?

 

Back in the day I would had said just install the TRD Tune again and go, but since we are dealing with Toyota and their funky relearn process, yes pull the battery cables for 10 minutes or so. Touch both cables (WHILE DISCONNECTED) to drain all internal caps from the computer if you want to speed things up.

 

No, just 12's. 13 and later obtained a silent PCM strategy change update which Hewitt is currently unable to overcome. They are working on it from what I know though.

 

I've learned a little patience. 10 min will be fine.

 

This may be too soon to say, but wow. I LIKE this air pump delete mod! Like A LOT! Crossing my fingers the changes stay this way, we'll see how this goes but dare I say this actually helped me in a very positive way! More to come.

 

Changed the plugs today. It only took two hours including removing the blower which wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be. I used NGK 2309 which are actually 1 step cooler than the suggested NGK replacement which I wanted, but you do have regap them slightly. I also pulled the little brass fitting on the release valve for the bypass. I haven’t really noticed anything other than that the idle is much smoother with new plugs lol. Actually one of the old plugs was toast, literally scorched on the porcalin, and I’m guessing the happened last year when I ran a little bit after plugging most of the radiator off road. I’m surprised it didn’t throw a code. Replaced the PCV valve too which wouldn’t even rattle anymore.

 

What size pulley are you using? The restrictor jet mod actually is more effective the smaller in size pulleys you drop down in. You won't notice as increased a throttle response if you are running a 3.0 in comparison to a 2.5 with the jet removed.

 

I’m getting a smaller pulley in a couple of weeks. I just did it now when I was able to do it easily. I figured there wouldn’t be much change with the stock pulley which is fine for now.

 

Yeah it wont be as dramatic as an effect. I run a 2.3 and the response with the restrictor jet in (slightly enlarged) over it out is like a MAJOR difference.

The time you posted to change out the plugs by removing the blower makes me glad I am able to do mine with it on. Lol.

 

Yeah, I know it’s possible to do with it on but it was so easy to just remove and I wasn’t in that much of a rush. I didn’t install the blower either so it was good to understand how it’s bolted down and remove it myself for future knowledge.

 

Yeah for any owner with these blowers it is very important to be familiar with its inner workings because it seems that superchargers are becoming less and less common knowledge in the auto industry and most shops are afraid to touch it because of the potential liabilities they involve. So dedicated threads for the subject matter are really a must.

I'm glad you got to learn some from your own blower so far!