TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I could be completely wrong but since you have a dcsb maybe try out a tom woods drive shaft one piece, and keep a oem 2 piece for the trail

Sine you already have sua maybe a one piece isnt that big of a sacrifice Of clearance

 

I may shoot them an email. Quick search on their site earlier said they don’t do 2 piece with a carrier bearing so I ruled them out.

 

It eliminates the carrier bearing so clearance may be an issue where the carrier bearing normally is,( might have to cut cross member due to your travel numbers) but im not sure. If it is, the you couldnt run oem for wheeling so it would be a moot point

 

Some other options that I've read about but on non-truck applications. For reference....
https://www.driveshaftshop.com/driveshaft-measurement
https://www.qa1.net/driveshafts

 

Just a question, when I manage to get this vacuum line off, what exactly am I looking for? To take that brass valve out of the pipe? Or to check if there is vacuum or what? As I said I have good boost up to 3000rpm but after that I really have nothing. Even the engine it’s self feels like it’s struggling to get up to 350-4000rpm. It’s weird. I’m just hoping the dyno guy can figure it out.

 

Once you get the tubing off you will see the brass orifice on the end of the bypass valve nipple. I got on it with needle nose and pulled it out. Then reinstalled the piece of tubing and clamped it down.

Gonna have to retract all that stuff about the gauges not reading correctly. After a couple drive cycles both AFR and boost gauges are tracking right on. This thing pulls pretty damn good even with 95F ambient and stock 3.0" pulley.

 

The engine itself is struggling?

You may be having spark or fueling issues then potentially. How many miles on it and have you checked for codes?

When you pull off that vacuum line you need to give it vacuum on the other side and the line you pulled should have suction at it. Once you okay that and get that out of the way then you do the same the other way around. It ensures the diaphragm is in good condition both ways.

 

Look for cracked ends on the vacuum hose.

Move the diaphragm linkage by hand, and make sure it is mechanically sound.

Spray some brake cleaner or any other form of combustible around the base of the S/C while the engine is idling, where it mates to the block. To check for idle fluctuations. Also spray around the cap, which has the TRD logo. Curious if those seals are bad.

Spray around bases of the injectors as well.

Other maintenance concerns.

How many km's ago did you change your spark plugs?

On the Dyno , did they record AFR's and notice it running abnormally rich or lean?

How many km's ago did you change your fuel filter?

When did you last check your air filter to see if it is completely clogged?

Did you upgrade the fuel pump yet?

Check all other vacuum hoses for split ends, due to the age of your vehicle.

 

As other have said it’s good to have them. I had to modify them to fit on my FJ by opening up the holes on one side. It wouldn’t go. I figured it best to tighten up the headers studs properly first, then make the braces fit. That way I focused on proper sealing at the engine.

My shipping weights for sound deadening came in at 202#’s. I installed almost every square inch of it

 

I second the bolded statement.

 

I believe we both agree that the diaphragm is the culprit.

@australian hilux , you could also remove the vacuum hose, which keeps the valve shut for "boost-only" operation. Plug/cap the ports Test and see if boost is gained back.

 

Yeah it feels like once I hit 3000 rpm the boost stops and the engine doesn’t really want to do much more after that. As in it just really struggling to get to 3500-4000rpm even with my foot flat to the floor.
I haven’t changed the fuel pump yet.
The spark plugs where changed 3000km ago and same with all filters. The engine has done 165k so just over 100k miles. This has just started since I changed my pulley to the 2.5”.
I’ll get this pipe off and see what’s happening. Thanks for your help everyone

 

Check to make sure the S/C coolant pump is also circulating. Not going to be the cause, but definitely worthy a check.

 

Funny you ask that because I didn’t actually check that. Last thing I needed was an over cooked sc

 

So that was meant to say DID check. I did check it.

 

Sounds like you may have lacking fuel delivery. Stock only goes so far, when in perfect working order.

 

That's exactly what I'm thinking too. I would replace the fuel pump and also make sure your boost bypass valve is in good shape. It definitely does sound like a fuel cut out, however.

 

Agreed. Sounds like how my truck behaved before my fuel pump swap. Mine was very mild when dosing with meth. Reason I figured I could get away with it short term.

 

Ah ok. Well I’ll source myself a new pump and I’ll still check that vacuum line and go from there.
Thanks again guys for your help. I’ll let you know how it goes.

 

Urd makes a nice fuel pump kit. Do research the (fix) to his system. Maybe someone here can add that link to the first page of this thread. (Hint)