TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Geez now I’ve heard it all! Hahaha!! It’s funny the saying ‘ shrimp on the barby’ Cause no one here ever does it. Plain and simple sausages my friends!
Yes your right about my sc being red. The Ute it came out of was red so I’m assuming the owner painted it red or as said, it might be an Australian TRD thing.

 

This is my work Ute. It’s had a 800mm chassis extension to allow for a 2.4m tray. It’s nothing special but has a strong drive train. Just got a few more things to do. Exhaust, snorkel, 2” lift, spot and bar lights.

 

And for those who haven’t seen it, heat is a red SC! Bit different for you guys.

 

Yeah I’ll pay that one!! Lol

 

Another member claimed it last night.

I didn’t use it because I was unwilling to believe 2 springs and a gasket were the quality I wanted in a truck I’ve spent so much money on. This is what’s in the box.

 

@GT7, now that I’ve basically forgotten how much I spent on cams, how do we get a Whipple on this truck?

 

I have a guy that can do the machine work I just don't quite have the cash to buy a whipple for test fitting. Next would be how to make an intercooler work.

 

So do we know what Gadget did? Why only the dual vvti motors?

 

With a whipple and a lower intake from our trucks an adapter can be made. Careful front to back placement and get it machined. Then not sure on an intercooler. Need some help there. Machinist work is 125 an hour.

 

No idea. As long as he won't help us I'm not going off what he may or may not know.

 

I wondered about the intercooler too.

 

If we had both pieces to hold together we could get dimensions on what could fit. My thought was maybe a whipple off a 5.3 Chevy as it's not an oval intake like Ford. And probably the cheapest. Maybe that would be an intercooler that could also work.

 

Well urd’s has an intercooler. All you would have to do is spend 6100 and get a custom lower intake manifold made with the bottom to fit our trucks, and the dual vvti bolt pattern up top to just be able to bolt it on. But who knows what the situation might be with the tensioner and belt routing

 

Yes, variables. I would assume the routing would be close enough to find a belt the correct length.

 

Gadgets Whipple uses a Jack shaft to drive the blower and the blower pulley looks to be much further to the passenger side than where ours are.
So I think his belt routes totally different than ours.

 

After looking at pics on his site I see that now.

 

Have you seen a noticeable difference in cooling since going to E-fan? I have been doing reading this afternoon and seems like results are all over the place. Even found one thread where someone claimed the stock mechanical fan puts out 10,000 cfm full blast

Right now my plan is to do a custom shroud that will house two fans. One flex-a-lite 16" that is rated at 3000 CFM and one 12" that is rated at 1325 CFM. The idea is that I can wire them up so they are progressive and the smaller 12" will likely not be used much in the winter but will come on more often in the spring, fall, and summer when things get really hot. So total I would have 4000 CFM+ and pretty good coverage on the CSF radiator.

 

Will this shroud be aluminium or plastic?

 

Aluminum. Probably do something along the lines of what @loginfailed did. I still am not proficient in TIG welding aluminum so it will be a combo of MIG, Rivets, and bolts to hold it all together. I may have it powdercoated for fun.

 

I have two SPAL VA13-AP70/LL-63-63A fans on my aftermarket aluminum radiator. They are each capable of approximately 1700 CFM at 0” SP. I have them on a PWM controller. They are absolutely amazing for my uses. It gets hot as hell where I live and I haven’t had any issues with cooling. In fact throughout the entire hot season, including some wheeling, the fans have ran so lightly. I was keeping a close eye on my temperatures when I wheeling and they never increased more than a couple of degrees. A/C performance has been awesome too. Big fan of the efans! Good luck.